1993 Voillot Joseph Meursault Les Cras

By billn on October 09, 2010

Medium, medium-plus golden. There are few black bits floating in the bottle, but they sink without problem. The nose is a blast of matchstick – I guess a bit more sulfur in those days! – underpinned with a soft spice-bread note. The palate is very 1993, taught, wiry, intense and with very good acidity – add that to the usual minerality of Cras and you have quite a combination. The flavours also seem to have plenty of the matchstick aromas and there is a super extra creamy dimension as you head into a decent, more savoury finish. Not a Meursault to wallow in, this one ‘instructs’.

1993 Bocquenet Daniel Echézeaux

By billn on July 08, 2010

Medium-plus colour. The nose opens with a dense core of dark red/black fruit with a sweet coffee addition – relatively young aromas of pretty and sweet fruit dominate though. In the mouth this is all silk and linearity. Certainly it’s intense in the mid-palate and the linear flavours are borne long on the acidity but despite having to search hard for any overt tannin this is clearly a baby. Return in 5+ years…

1993 Cathiard André Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By billn on July 08, 2010

Medium mature colour. The nose starts with a depth of soil, a slight tomato lift and then beautiful smooth and fresh red/purple cherry fruit – the cherry gets stronger and stronger in the glass. Silky, slightly fat texture yet perfectly fresh. There’s almost no tannin to find. Initially it’s linear in the mid-palate yet the fruit flavour persists well. Slowly the intensity and dimension of the mid-palate swells. A beautifuly clarity of fruit shines through this wine.

1993 Latour Louis Vosne-Romanée

By billn on July 08, 2010

Medium mature, slightly mahogany colour. A little warmth of sweet undergrowth and a subliminal suggestion of Vosne spice, the last drops have a pretty acid red-cherry note. In the mouth this is sweetly fruited and has excellent balancing acidity. Medium concentrated with fully resolved tannin. The finish is freshly and understatedly sweet. More than ‘competent’ but not significantly more, there’s no wow factor. Tasty if a little simple…

1993 Mortet Denis Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques

By on May 01, 2009 #asides

(Magnum) The first vintage of this wine at the domaine. Medium, medium-plus colour. If the last wines had some minor departure from the aromatic script, this is clearly back on-message; mineral, some sweetness, faint coffee and quite some complexity – super. Fat texture and still relatively primary, but it’s still intense and full of mid-palate flavour. The saline minerality is fully evident in the long finish – and it’s an excellent finish. Today it’s a massive and just vaguely monolithic experience – it might show better if there was a hint more freshness. I don’t think it will ever be noble or intricately precise, but it’s clearly built to impress.

1993 Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc

By on April 01, 2009 #asides

A medium, in fact quite young looking yellow. A little creamy, mature lanolin underpins the aromas of a younger wine. In the mouth it is linear and quite mineral until a small burst of interest in the mid-palate and a nice finish. Whilst the acidity is the defining feature of the wine, it has just enough padding that it doesn’t become jarring. Everyone around the room was sure it was a Puligny…

1993 Drouhin Joseph Charmes-Chambertin

By on April 01, 2009 #asides

There’s a deep core of colour here – looks relatively mature. The nose starts deep, sweet and earthy – that’s a great start – concentrated, macerating dark fruit that very slowly gives up a redder berry-note. In the mouth there is intensity, depth and really good acidity – it is a luxurious rather than ‘fat’ impression. The tannin is a mere after-thought and the flavours, with a bitter chocolate edge, linger very well. Despite it being more than 15 years since it was harvested, it’s still a young wine, but clearly it’s in an early phase of maturity and certainly drinkability! A clear ‘rebuy’ with it’s blend of power and elegance. Really super stuff.

1993 Drouhin Joseph Clos de Vougeot

By on April 01, 2009 #asides

A big cork has been common to all these Drouhins, but this is the first to easily slide from the bottle – it doesn’t look like it’s been a perfect seal – let’s see. A deep core of ruby-red colour, just hinting at amber. Over time the nose vacillates between tight, deep but dark woody notes and a wider, undergrowth driven panorama – I ‘feel’ rather than smell just a hint of oxidation. In the mouth there’s no hint of oxidation, rather a core of flowing acidity is the central pillar. Good intensity with a mouth-watering finish and tannin that still shows a grain. The length and dimension are impressive. This bottle, despite what I suspect to be a less than perfect cork, needs a couple more years – I expect other bottles may need at least five! Much younger than the 93 Charmes and today, far less satisfying – but I’ll be buying a few for future reference.

1993 Chauvenet Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Vaucrains

By on April 01, 2008 #asides

A medium-plus, young looking colour. Earthy, deep aromas with a mix of black and red fruit coupled to something a little more mature and savoury. In the mouth there is a mix of richness and freshness coupled to astringent tannins that probably ripe enough and certainly on the wane. Still a young showing and very impressive too.

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