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Roundup of Wines Tasted

wine testing

1er CRU WINES

2005 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru try to find this wine...
From 2 assembled 1ers. Just a little simple and clean confiture on the nose. Clean and flavour-packed with slightly prickly acidity but lovely fruit. I would certainly buy this.
2005 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Frémiets try to find this wine...
A tight and clean nose. This has more tannin, but it is soft and cuddly tannin. There is darker fruit here – very well presented – but I have slight preference for the ‘basic’ 1er cru over this.
2005 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Champans try to find this wine...
A wide nose but not so deep. This shows as a cross between the previous two wines but with considerable better length. Very nice indeed.
2005 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs try to find this wine...
Aromatically complete with width and depth to the red-shaded fruits. Fully packed in your mouth – plenty of tannin, but it’s the incredible intensity that eventually makes you swallow – very, very impressive.
1996 Jean-Claude Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts with a fine berry/raspberry note, set against a deeper brooding background – lovely – shame then that after 30 minutes you are left only with the brooding background! The palate itself is fresh and like very many of the lower appellation wines from this vintage, it is defined mainly by it’s acidity. Overall the tannin is hidden but the palate is linear and narrow, concentrated for all that but surprisingly primary. Length is almost good. Overall there is little here to suggest that it’s 11 years since the vintage. I wonder if/when it will ever open out – one more bottle remains – so I’ll give it one more chance, age 15, but I wouldn’t buy more.
2005 Roger Belland, Santenay 1er Commes try to find this wine...
Wide and high-toned aromatics with a little confiture. Very soft, concentrated and with fine but abundant tannin. An absolute steal at the price.
2005 Roger Belland, Santenay 1er Gravières try to find this wine...
An equally forward nose – this time less ‘jammy’. This is darker and more concentrated but just a little tighter. More serious. Drink the Commes today and this tomorrow.
2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin Les Arvelets try to find this wine...
A deeper and tighter nose – faint spice too. Balance coupled to super texture, excellent width, depth and dimension. The size of the note is inversely proportional to the quality – excellent.
1988 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Fixin Les Arvelets try to find this wine...
A deep, dusky and musky nose – in the short time we’re together the fruit slowly comes more to the fore. Very soft entry, it’s wide and and interesting with plenty of dimension, power and is quite ripe. There’s a little more grain to the tannins than the previous wines, but this is long and lovely – à point and a treat!
2001 Bouchard P&F, Beaune 1er du Châteautry to find this wine...
Last tried almost 3 years ago and it was very ‘awkward’. Medium ruby-red colour. Softly sweet red nose – primary but pretty. Medium weight, nicely transparent and with good acidity. This is altogether quite a charmer today – shame I held of more purchases as it’s all gone now!
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Nuits St.Georges 1er Cru Clos St.Marc try to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts with a forward blast of oaky and mineral tones. Time in the glass gives red fruit and a coffee, mocha-tinged almost texturally furry nose – it just shades more blue with time, and it never stops improving. The palate is muscular though the tannin is buried by the concentration, but what is discernible is finely textured. Excellent acidity with good dimension in the mid-palate. The finish has decent length but is currently one-dimensional. It’s an excellent Nuits – no question, approaching grand cru – though it’s definitely 2nd class in terms value versus the previous Daniel Rion.
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavièrestry to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose shows red and black fruit, but more to the ‘black side’, there is also an underlying note of (medium) oak toast – not overpowering (even to this palate) but consistent for the time the bottle is consumed. The palate is lithe and interesting with good length, without ever generating getting into gear. Good wine for sure, but disappointing vs my initial note.
2005 Bruno Clair, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er La Dominode try to find this wine...
A deeper and darker nose. Plenty of grainy tannin here coupled with mouthwatering acidity too. Fortunately the fruit is also very interesting and seems up to the job. Good as it is, it’s twice the price of Pavelot’s and not as good.
2005 Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques try to find this wine...
A deep, round and oakily creamy nose – quite clean though. Ripe and clean with real concentration and dimension. There’s lots of tannin but it’s balanced and long – impressive.
1998 Joseph Drouhin, Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is soft, wide and red – perhaps with a hint of mint to go with many layers of fruit. In the mouth there is plenty of ripe, red-shaded fruit which shows an excellent length – I do, however, find the acidity sticking out just a little. There’s still some well-grained tannin that has plenty of balancing extract. Only the less than perfect acidity means that I don’t unreservedly recommend this. Still a more than interesting wine.
2001 Joseph Drouhin, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Montstry to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts wide, wild and fecund – very impressive – but within 25 minutes it’s a shadow of its former self; higher-toned, fresh and herbal – spicy but without the earlier power. The palate is lithe, linear and undemonstrative – somehow metallic tasting. On the plus-side there is excellent texture and an implied rather than overt power. The length is impressive if rather understated. If I’m honest, there’s nothing here today except potential and more left the bottle for day 2 than normal. Day 2: much of the nose is returned, high-class Vosne, almost textural aromatics. The palate has improved some – mainly the width and length of the finish, but whilst there is enough to tempt me to buy more – this wine has become very difficult to find – you really should avoid opening bottles today.
2005 Dureuil-Janthial, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Argillières try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is wide and fresh, faintly creamy but far from effusive and goes through quite a sulfurous phase before smelling more of violets. In the mouth there is a plush background to soft and creamy red fruit that lasts well into the finish – just a little coconut edged. There is good mid-palate dimension and an oak-driven richness. A very good bottle, but today I’d like a little more personality.
1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Roncières try to find this wine...
From a half-bottle. Medium-plus ruby-red. A nose that remains relatively understated; faint red fruit overlain with equally faint, sweet caramel. Some fat, concentrated and with perfect acidity – this really dances across the palate. The tannins retain some grain but are on the wane. I rather fell-out with c.97-98 Grivots as unbalanced tannic monsters, but this is lovely – I’m happy to have a few in the cellar.
1997 Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots try to find this wine...
A wide, slightly diffuse, earthy, mineral nose with fruit shaded to the red. Some reasonably fresh notes that overlay a dense, tight core – almost separated from the rest of the wine – comes together more in the glass. Some grainy tannin and a reasonably long finish. This is almost good – not as dense but fresher and more interesting than his Richebourg in this vintage.
2005 Guyon, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets try to find this wine...
A very wide nose. Concentrated, sweet and ripe fruit and again dark oak. Very good acidity and mid-palate intensity.
2005 Guyon, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Guerets try to find this wine...
High-tones on the nose. Wide with much redder fruit on the palate – just a little animale too – this has quite some personality.
2005 Guyon, Nuits St.Georges Les Herbues try to find this wine...
A wide nose – this time with some complexity to add to the barrel aromas. In the mouth there’s plenty of furry tannin, and like the nose you find an extra dimension – better length too. Very nice.
2005 Guyon, Vosne-Romanée 1er En Orveaux try to find this wine...
The nose is very tight – little spice-rack but little else. Very concentrated and lovely on the tongue, packed with buffered grainy tannin. Clearly not for the faint of heart.
2005 2005 Clos des Lambrays, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Loups try to find this wine...
A soft and yet tight nose – giving little away. Mouth-filling and perfectly ripe in a slightly confiture way. But its like a comfy armchair you can sink into.
1997 Dominique Laurent, Fixin 1er Les Hervelets try to find this wine...
Medium colour. The nose starts a little unusual, green boiled vegetables – asparagus – slowly takes on a more classic pale red nose at the core, actually it was better than it sounds! Quite fresh, though the acidity is a little spiky and penetrating but there’s a mineral edge too. Mouthwatering with a mineral length. Interesting but I wouldn’t buy any…
2001 Momessin, Morey St.Denis La Forgetry to find this wine...
This is the second wine from the Clos de Tart. Relatively deep ruby-red colour, still a little cherry-red at the rim. The nose is deep, ripe and serious. In the mouth, you have a really excellent texture, warm red fruit with a faint spice. The tannins are quite ‘executive’ despite the declassification and the acidity is very well judged. This is no shy and retiring wine, but has really super balance. Highly recommended.
2005 Thierry Mortet, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Aux Beaux-Bruns try to find this wine...
The nose is tight – eventually showing clean and pretty red fruits. Less grippy than the last Gevrey, high-toned fruit in the mouth and very good length. This is a very nice bottle.
2005 Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er La Dominode try to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts as a sumptuous swirl of deep cherry and well-integrated oak, an hour from opening and it’s tighter with edges of tobacco and cocoa. Like the nose, this starts hyper-concentrated yet plush, but like the nose it’s a transitory period before it tightens to show its inner self; intensity, excellent acidity and furry tannin before a good finish. Sumptuous and hedonistic for 25 minutes, underneath there’s the power and structure for 25 years of development. Given the tightening I would suggest drinking only over the next 6 months before sleeping for at least 10-plus – but buy all you can find, and that’s despite a 30% price increase over the last 4 vintages.
2005 Perrot-Minot, Nuits St.Georges 1er La Richemone try to find this wine...
Concentrated aromatics with dark and dense fruit – really impresses. Really concentrated yet balanced with super acidity. A wine that continues to impress despite its price.
2005 Perrot-Minot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Combe d’Orveaux try to find this wine...
A dark and brooding, indeed menacing nose with a high-toned mineral edge – wow! A deep and concentrated but very fine package – this is an absolute beauty. Whatever it costs, it’s probably worth it – a top 10 wine for me this year.
2005 Gaston et Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussottry to find this wine...
A deep cherry-red core. The nose is understated but deep – it remains so even after the last hints of dark oak have receded. This 2005 is one of the rarer wines from the vintage with an edge of black fruit in the mix – the last drops in the glass are, however, pure red. Smooth and soft – almost sweetly cordial like – it will keep this aspect for about another 2 years before becoming more ‘classically’ fresh. But balanced freshness is already evident, and the tannin is very much hidden in the background. There’s plenty of material here, and most impressive is the value – this was about 19 Swiss francs, i.e regional bourgogne territory. Even in 2005 you will be hard pressed to find such a sophisticated bourgogne.
1998 H&G Remoriquet, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les St.Georgestry to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby/mahogany colour. The nose is heavily scented; deep, dense and dank, with wet wood and aged vanilla-cream cherry. Concentrated and rather well textured for a top Nuits from a vintage that enjoys more than a hint of tannin – there’s very little astringency. The acidity remains fresh and mouthwatering though with just a little bitterness at the end. The length is very-good rather than great. Overall, this is impressively open for what is a relative youngster though it’s certainly brawny rather than elegant – but isn’t that the epitomy of a good Nuits? Oh and at ~£20 in the sale – a schnäpchien! For drinking now and over the next 10+ years.
2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux-Montstry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Initially a nose of deep, soft and sweet medium-toast oak and a little peppery dark fruit, time bestows more caramel and red fruit. Mouthfilling and concentrated yet remaining athletic rather than fat, the tannins are buried beneath the fruit. The mid-palate is expanded in the mouth by lush acidity. Finally it’s a very low-key, but long finish. Here is a 2005 that is not yet guarding its wares. An out-and-out bargain at the en-primeur purchase price of 43 Swiss francs per, that’s 26 Euros. Who says there is no value in Burgundy?
2005 Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques try to find this wine...
A tight and clean nose – hinting at but never showing great depth. Ripe and soft with very fine tannin. The extra dimension over the villages cuvée seems quite small.
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Beaune 1er Grèves try to find this wine...
Following the vineyards sale, there is just over one hectare remaining. Soft and sweetish red and black notes on the nose. The palate is fresh and lithe with understated complexity – not the über concentration of many from this vintage, but it’s very tasty and I expect it will be a good value bottle.
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes try to find this wine...
This is from relatively young vines. A very pleasant and softly perfumed nose with faint caramel. In the mouth this shows plenty of structure and good acidity – there is quite some furry tannin too. This is subtly long despite the structure slightly dominating right now.
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Pommard 1er Epenots try to find this wine...
This comes from 2 parcels of vines. There’s a creamy depth to this super nose. Concentrated with a nice volume in the mouth – again it’s very structured but there is balance and an engaging length. Quite an impressive bottle.
2005 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. A deep and impressive nose that’s edged with dark cherry and darker oak. The palate is very well concentrated, soft tannin and excellent acidity. The fruit is dark shaded, buttressed by oak flavour and has a nice creamy medium length. Very, very good.
2005 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champs Chevrey try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. Wide, sweet and interesting on the rather yummy nose. There’s plenty of grainy tannin, but it doesn’t overwhelm the lovely fruit background that slides slowly into a good, less obviously creamy and oak inflected finish than the 1er Lavières. I almost always like this cuvée and here’s another to add to the list!
2005 de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny 1er try to find this wine...
High-toned, complex and delicate aromatics – quite engaging. More concentration and tannin than the ‘villages’, but there’s really and extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. Excellent, but also overpriced.
2005 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Les Brouillards try to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red colour – relative to its age and other wines of the vintage it’s quite light in colour. The nose is forward and shows a lovely perfume; floral top notes and bright red berries with red cherry at the base. Fine silken texture, perfect acidity and a slowly fading, cream-edged finish. Not powerful, but it has real dimension, class and elegance – excellent.

Premier Cru Whites

2005 François et Denis Clair, St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents de Chientry to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose needs a little while to widen, perhaps a little white blossom. The palate is intense and soft, sweetly ripe. The acidity seems quite understated – but there’s much more density to this wine than in most vintages, it even has some focus. For the price, very impressive.
2005 Morey-Blanc, Meursault 1er Gouttes d’Or try to find this wine...
The nose is understated but shows a subtle width. In the mouth there is also a nice width and lovely complexity – this is very fine – and no fat! Very, very lovely.
2005 Leflaive, Puligny 1er Clavoillon try to find this wine...
Depth on the nose and little brioche. The palate has some fat and to be honest I’d prefer a touch more acidity but the finish is nice and leaves your mouth watering for the next sip. A good wine.
2005 Leflaive, Puligny 1er Les Pucelles try to find this wine...
A wide and authoritative nose that’s both concentrated and dense. In the mouth its quite rich but the acidity is just the right foil to provide lift and balance. It’s expensive, but it is what it is – excellent.
1999 Denis Pommier, Chablis 1er Côte de Lechet try to find this wine...
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Worryingly deep colour. The nose, however, is restrained, waxy and showing only the merest suggestion of oxidation – in short it’s a nice, older and ready wine. The palate is balanced and mineral, without showing obviously mouthwatering acidity. The old-timer’s oxidation is there on the finish but it’s very, very mild. A nice wine that is more advanced than a 99 should be, but is not ‘dulled’, or ‘tired’ – it is tasty now and should be drunk quickly – we also drank (and enjoyed) the second bottle quickly!

GRAND CRU WINES

2005 Bonneau du Martray, Corton try to find this wine...
Aromatically high-toned, wide and fine – very nice. Understated concentration and nice fruit with lots of fine tannin that slowly creeps up on you. Very good but too expensive.
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chambertin try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts deep and wide – still primary – slowly providing a soft, savoury bacon-fat background. In the mouth this is intense, wide and mouth-filling. There is still plenty of tannin, faintly astringent and with a bitter chocolate edge that adds a little cream before going very long in the finish. There is a ton of structure here but it’s very well matched by the extract. Excellent, and wait a minute – hmm – I can still buy this cheaper than some ‘mid-range’ 2005 premiers…!
2005 Bruno Clair, Chambertin Clos de Bèze try to find this wine...
The nose starts wide, red and just a little diffuse – improving with time and even taking on a floral aspect. The nose is tight compared to the Clos St.Jacques – consequently rather understated. Width, complexity, dimension and concentration in the mouth. Excellent – the flavour really lingers
1997 Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin try to find this wine...
Wide and interesting, just a little diffuse but there’s plenty of complexity and a little earth. Relatively fresh, starting wide and narrows/concentrates into the finish – and it’s a good creamy finish. The overall stance of this wine is one of understatement – but it’s very nice and if seen at a good price…
2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Perrières try to find this wine...
Limpid medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts tight and unyielding. It slowly releases mocha/espresso high-notes and even over 2 hours remains stable without ever revealing more than a glimpse of fruit. The palate is lithe and athletic but with unforgiving concentration – there is much depth but this is clearly not a wine for today. The tannins are very well covered and the length is also quite espresso without ever becoming overly oaky. Not really all that closed, but an impressive and muscular wine that needs at least 5-10 years in the cellar. I think it will reward that wait
1998 Joseph Drouhin, Clos St.Denistry to find this wine...
Medium red colour just a faint amber transition at the rim. The nose is deep, brown sugar and baked red fruit with some higher alcoholic traces and faint vanilla – it’s lovely. On your tongue you miss a little ‘fat’ and there’s just a bitter chocolate edge to the tannin, but the fruit is equally lovely and the finish is very, very long with a raisin-fruit edge. Value alone vs recent vintage pricing is enough to guarantee this being a ‘rebuy’ – it’s hard to find good 1er crus from 2005 at this price.
1995 Dujac, Clos de la Rochetry to find this wine...
The colour is starting to take on a shade of mahogany, not perfectly bright – but see through. Aromatically it’s about heavy stems over pretty red fruit – cherry, strawberry and raspberry – and a little ‘raised’ balsamic impression. The palate is well textured and apart from a little extra width and intensity in the mid-palate, the wine is about understated, balanced delivery. The finish is almost good – no more. I think my last bottle was 3-4 years ago, the colour is a little older and the tannin is softer. Very good, but hardly outstanding.
1999 Faiveley, Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red. Faint higher tones over mineral coated pure red cherry that plums a good depth if not much width – give it another hour and there’s a lovely piercing red note. In the mouth it starts narrow, slowly widening as it heads for the mid-palate. The acidity is forward and more than just a little tart but the tannins are well hidden. Everything remains tight going into the finish but I have to say there is a sneaky extra dimension of creamy flavour that expands further in the finish – certainly the most compelling part. Time gives a little more fat and interestingly a little more astringency to ‘balance’. Okay now, but I won’t open another in the next 5 years…
2004 Camille Giroud, Chapelle-Chambertintry to find this wine...
A medium cherry-red colour. The nose whilst showing lots of herbal, spice and floral elements has none of the ‘2004 cedar’ – very interesting. The palate is lithe and quite linear, a touch austere even, but great fruit, a sneaky extra dimension on the mid-palate and a very, very impressive, if understated finish keep you coming back for more. It clearly needs time but I expect it should repay the wait – say from 2015…
1998 Antonin Guyon, Corton Clos du Roytry to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is wide and quite forward, some diffuse higher tones and faintly spiced red fruit. The palate is lithe and muscular, good acidity too complimenting tannin that’s forward, but ripe and well under control. There’s a small burst of intensity before the finish – which is not bad, but could be longer. Muscular, interesting and balanced – if not stunning.
2005 Guyon, Echézeaux try to find this wine...
Tight – only a few higher tones escape the glass. Equally tight on the palate – there is concentration and balance on a higher level to the last wine but I can discern little else.
1997 Clos des Lambrays try to find this wine...
A forward nose, leafy, tobacco. The palate is subdued, relatively balanced but shows a nice little burst of interest in the mid-palate before fading. It’s quite nice, but not more.
2005 Clos des Lambrays try to find this wine...
Understated aromatics that are fin and complex with a faint creamy undertow. Ripe, sweet and complex. The tannin carries a little grain, but it’s hardly very forward. Super length – a wine to spend an evening with!
2005 Perrot-Minot, Mazoyères-Chambertin try to find this wine...
Also a menacing nose – but clearly not showing all its potential depth. Concentrated and fully-packed in the mouth. Another clearly impressive, indeed stunning wine – it just didn’t speak to me like the Chambolle did…
2000 Romanée-Conti, Romanée St.Vivant try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour – just a very faint edge of amber at the rim. The nose is a sniffer’s delight – though the stems are very forward – they overlay a deep and primary red-fruit nose that’s edged with softness and a faint, savoury, musky note. The more it develops in the glass the more savoury it becomes; the last drops showing an extra fineness. In the mouth the wine is clearly grand cru in texture though the concentration is not so up-front, it rather develops on the tongue in an understated way. The tannins are well covered though I find the acidity is the least perfect aspect – not bad, but just a little bright – at this level I demand seamless. There is a subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate and into the finish – which is also very understated. Apart from the nose and the entry, everything about the wine is subtle and low-key – it holds the interest amply though, even the acidity seems well-judged at the death. Very fine now, if not quite mind-bending. I expect it will only get better for at least the next 10 years but it was very much enjoyed – to the last drop!
2005 Armand Rousseau, Charmes-Chambertin try to find this wine...
Wide, high tones over a little reduction and dark creamy fruit. The reduction is more marked on the palate, but really excellent concentration, texture and complexity are immediately apparent. This is quite a wine.
2005 Armand Rousseau, Clos des Ruchottes-Chambertin try to find this wine...
In every dimesion this is a junior Charmes – surprising – the only advantage it seems to show is elegance and athleticism – both good points.
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Clos de Vougeot try to find this wine...
From a parcel of quite well-placed vines, planted just above the Château de la Tour. A tight but faintly sweet nose. Clearly there is lots and lots of structure here, but equally clearly this is the longest finishing wine of the series. Classic, austere, young Clos de Vougeot and probably almost good value.
1993 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi try to find this wine...
Unfortunately the first bottle smelled and tasted of feet – the second was altogether more interesting: A lovely core of red fruit surrounded by slightly more diffuse high tones. The structure is now starting to fade in favour of nicely defined and ripe red fruit. The finish is a good one too. Quite a pretty wine.
2005 Tollot-Beaut, Corton-Bressandes try to find this wine...
This has a narrow but beautifully deep nose. In the mouth it’s about intensity and lovely acidity. Carries itself beautifully this wine.
2005 de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes try to find this wine...
What a surprise – not served last. Understated, tight aromatics, despite that there is wide panorama of notes – just limited depth. In the mouth it’s simply a tour-de-force. It’s just an amazing mouthful of complexity. At this level, price is effectively transcended.
2005 de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares try to find this wine...
Higher-toned, more giving aromatics of depth and interest. Lithe and athletic – it’s like a coiled spring – I don’t know how the energy was contained in the glass. I normally shy away from Bonnes-Mares, but this one stole the show. Beg, borrow or steal to drink this – I will!

Grand Cru Whites

2001 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne: try to find this wine...
Not light colour – at least not when using the previous two as reference. Very ripe, honey on the nose. In the mouth it’s fat and concentrated – no obvious oxidation aromas or flavours – but not the zing, not the painful intensity and not the haunting finish of those first bottles – comment from winemaker friend #2: “you called me round just to taste this?” – ouch.
2005 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne try to find this wine...
Very pale. Well-integrated oak notes and plenty of depth on the clean nose. Soft, concentrated and with lovely depth. There are no fireworks but tons of restrained interest. Worth the price of entry…
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chablis Bougros try to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is forward and deep, a little vanilla-custard and maybe some background sulfur that seems to slightly dull a citrus edge. The palate is… well… wow! Super-intense. It’s hardly at its best given my lack of patience as the impressive parts are not yet a ‘whole’ but there is reasonable minerality, impressive mid-palate intensity and and a great ‘zing’ to the acidity. The length is very good rather than outstanding, but clearly a bargain at the price.
2001 Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Charlemagne: try to find this wine...
Light colour. Tight, mineral, less obviously ripe. Austere and concentrated – probably what most 5/6 year-old Charlemagnes would aspire to!
2005 William Fevre, Chablis Les Preuses Grand Crutry to find this wine...
Nice aromas, more concentrated and wide. Very long – I like!
2005 William Fevre, Chablis Les Clos Grand Crutry to find this wine...
More waxy and tight than the Preuses. Mineral and very, very long – lovely!

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One response to “Roundup of Wines Tasted”

  1. Carl Steefel

    Interesting that the 2005 Armand Rousseau Lavaux St Jacques did not show all that well. We had the 2001 Rousseaux LSJ at the beginning of our Burgundy trip and I have to say I was expecting a bit more. This was outshone by any number of wines later on in the trip (including other 2001). Dangerous to speculate on a couple of bottles here, but I wonder…

    Also glad to hear your 2000 DRC Romanee St Vivant showed so well. We tasted this alongside a 2000 DRC Echezeaux and it was very hard to coax much out of it. We really felt it had been a bit of a waste to drink it now…

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