des Hâtes – 2022
Tasted in Maligny with Pierrick Laroche, 25 January 2024. Domaine Des Hâtes 5 Chemin des Hâtes 89800 Maligny Tel: +33 6 73 67 33 47 More reports with Domaine des Hâtes Pierrick on 2023: “I’m very happy with 2023. Maybe it’s not as great as 22 – which I think… Read More
des Trois V – 2022
Tasted in Chichée with Marjorie Molusson, 26 January 2024. Domaine des Trois V 5 allée des Tilleuls 89800 Chichée Tel: +33 6 24 39 68 47 www.domaine-des-trois-v.fr Domaine Instagram More Reports with Domaine des Trois V Marjorie on 2023: “2023 was very good – the wines are ‘work progress’ but… Read More
Laurent Ponsot – 2021
Tasted in Gilly les Citeaux with everyone’s favourite Bond villain, Laurent Ponsot, 17 November 2023. Laurent Ponsot SAS 10 Rue Des Cerisiers ZA Petite Champagne 21640 Gilly Les Citeaux Tel: +33 3 80 41 03 27 www.laurentponsot.wine Domaine Instagram More reports for Laurent Ponsot. Laurent on 2021: “I’ve done 43… Read More
JA Ferret – 2021
Tasted with Audrey Braccini, in Fuissé, 15 June 2023. Domaine Ferret 166 rue Adrien Arcelin 71960 Fuissé Tel: +33 3 85 35 61 56 www.domaine-ferret.com More reports with Domaine Ferret I was lucky to taste with Audrey just before she left the domaine – she was heading to the Loire,… Read More
2023 Beaujolais Nouveau – steady as she goes!
So - how important is Beaujolais Nouveau today?
It may surprise you to learn that in 2022, nearly a quarter of all Beaujolais' 13,500 hectares of production, ended up in bottles that were labelled Nouveau.
That was 16,500,000 bottles of Nouveau - and that's a lot - it's equivalent to 85% of all the production of the Burgundy region from Chablis to the 'border' with Beaujolais!
France takes 60% of the bottles but the classic markets of Japan, the US and the UK, together, still bought more than 4 million bottles last year.
That being the case, it's still worth trying to find some good ones!
The 2023 vintage:
The vine-growth in 2023 started in the 'new classic' style - ie quite early and in good conditions due to a mild start to the year. This year, there was hardly any worry about frost and there followed practically ideal conditions for flowering. This early debut of growth, followed by the summer heat, ensured that it was another earlier harvesting year - from about the 1st September - so, versus 2021, we certainly had the potential for nearly an extra month of elevage before any Nouveau bottling got underway - but how, exactly, did the post-flowering year go?
In 2023, the Beaujolais vigneron(ne)s liked to talk about the weather; there's nothing unusual about 'farmers' talking about the weather, right? Of course not! But, as we approached the harvest, there was a clear focus to most of these conversations - and that focus was the rain - or rather the lack of rain.
The crus in the north got a couple of decent rainfalls in July/August but to the south not - here it stayed dry from mid-June right up to the harvest - in fact the further south you went in Beaujolais, the drier it got, reducing the berry size and therefore the yields - unsurprisingly, it was the young vines that particularly suffered in these conditions. The producers point to the counter-balance of the daytime heat with cooler nights - 'so the wines have a nice aromatic balance - not too warm!'
Proportionately, Beaujolais Nouveau is made in higher quantities from vines in the appellations of Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages as these labels are a little less attractive to Beaujolais buyers than those wines labelled in the name of 'the crus' - such as Fleurie or Saint Amour. So it is the wines from the south, whose volumes were most severely limited by the summer drought, who provide the bulk of the juice for these Nouveaux - it was an important point for this tasting.
The best wines...
In the the heartland of Beaujolais Nouveau production - ie the south of Beaujolais - the, drought-related, brake on the potential harvest volume has clearly been of benefit for anyone with an interest in drinking this stuff. That's because any excess volume usually translates into significant quality variation between those who cropped at the maximum and those who were more modest.
2023's more modest harvest volumes have brought some consistency to the wines - a little like in 2022. The Beaujolais Nouveaux are less regular than the Beaujolais Villages Nouveaux but as in most years the latter category come with not just more depth of flavour - they come with more structure too - and in many cases I'd be looking to keep, and drink, the villages over a longer period than the campaign for Nouveau might suggest.
I have noted a few more great wines (below) than in 2022 but overall, it's quite a similar number for 97 wines tasted this year.
97 wines tasted - is that a lot? There are probably more like 200-250 different bottlings and/or cuvée names in this category - and good luck to you if you can find some of them in your local markets. I really struggle in Switzerland - and the anonymous (single!) bottling of Switzerland's Coop supermarket is, historically, an awful one - but I'll try it again this year - hopefully without needing to pour (more than!) half of the bottle away!
Good hunting!
All the wines were tasted and selected blind. It was only after the tasting that I got a copy of the spreadsheet with the names to match to the numbered bottles:
5 Great wines for their labels
One more than last year:
Jean Loron, Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé
Agamy, Domaine de Solémy Beaujolais Nouveau
Manoir du Carra Famille Sambardier, Dame Nature Beaujolais Villages
Famille Descombe, Granite Beaujolais Villages
Richard Rottiers Beaujolais Villages
10 Excellent Wines - Beaujolais Nouveau
Two less than in 2022:
Jean Loron, Rift 69
Romy, Le Mouflet
Georges Duboeuf
Jean-Yves Sonnery Domaine de Baluce
Domaine des Prévelières
Domaine Pierre André Dumas
Aurélie et Fabien Romany
Domaine des Prévelières, Border'Wine
Baptiste Aufranc
Célia et David Large, Zombi
9 Excellent Wines - Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Just one more than in 2022:
Domaine Gaget, Vinum Memoria
Georges Duboeuf
Domaine de la Madone Bérerd Père et Fils
Nicolas Boudeau
Domaine des Terres Vivantes, La Lutine
Cave Vignerons de Bel Air, Natural
Château de Corcelles
Domaine Desprès
Julien Aucagne
Click on 'Read More...' below to see the full notes for the (almost) 100 wines in the order that they were (blind) tasted on Halloween 2023:
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The return of the Mark – Vosne 2023
DOMAINE MICHEL GROS VENDANGE SEPT 2023 – JOURNEY TO ARRIVAL Bonjour tout la monde (as one says, en France, in a plural greeting to a number of folk e.g arriving for breakfast) 😊 ! I’ve really, really, missed 2 years away from my spiritual second ‘home’ on the Cote… Read More
Vincent Latour – 2021
Tasted in Meursault with Vincent Latour, 17 May 2023. Domaine Vincent Latour 6 Rue du 8 Mai 1945 21190 Meursault Tel: +33 3 80 21 22 49 www.domaine-vincentlatour.com More reports with Domaine Vincent Latour. Vincent on 2021: “2021? – It really depends on the sector – but for the domaine,… Read More
La Pousse d’Or – 2021
Tasted in Volnay with Benoît Landanger and Marleen Nicot, 21 April 2023. Domaine de la Pousse d’Or 8 Rue de la Chapelle 21190 Volnay Tel: +33 3 80 21 24 03 www.lapoussedor.fr More reports with Domaine de la Pousse d’Or A sad post-script to this visit; on the 22nd April,… Read More
Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt – 2021
Tasted in Milly with Sébastien & Vincent Dampt, 07 March 2023. Domaines Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt 1 Chemin des Violettes 89800 Milly Tel: +33 3 86 42 47 23 www.sebastien-dampt.com More reports with Domaines Daniel, Sébastien & Vincent Dampt Notes on ‘Vignoble Dampt’ in Collan, who are cousins, can… Read More