Despite the heat of 2003, in the company of the older vintages it manages to neatly display it’s origin, a little redder in the face, a little louder and carrying a few extra pounds, but it’s without doubt Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus. Silky, slightly fat palate with a little oak still to meld. Good tannins and mouthwatering. At this young age the concentration and ripeness of the fruit smothers attempts at complexity, but there’s time for that in the future. It will be very interesting to make the same comparison in 10 years.

The same label has been used since 1791. Always ripens earlier than most other Beaune vines due to the vineyard being a little like an amphitheatre. A nicely forward nose of smooth red fruit, a little powdery and an extra black depth – there’s more than a hint of spice too. Mouthfilling, complex but a friendly package with a creamy edge. Long and very fine – I’ve bought some.

Just slightly paler than the 2002. Surprisingly the nose goes a little deeper and there’s a dark trace of oak. The wine’s a little cold, but swirling will eventually coax out some red fruit. Soft as silk, fills the mouth admirably. Fresh, lovely acidity. Needs more time than the 2002 and for me has an extra purity. Lovely, I suppose I’ll have to buy some of this too…

Unfortunately the first bottle was corked, hence, the replacement was a little colder. The nose starts tight and high-toned over a begrudging deeper base. Characteristically soft and silky palate, good concentration for a 2000 Beaune – 15% was declassified to achieve this – but still not the same mid-palate punch. If this wine has an extra dimension, it is on the finish. Again the tannins are excellent.

This vineyard is at the the centre of Les Grèves. Originally gifted to the Carmelite order it took its name at that time. Confiscated from the church during the revolution, the Bouchards were able to purchase the vineyard when it was subsequently sold by the state in 1791. This is perhaps the most renowned of the BP&F vineyards. The nose is reticent, but sweet black cherry fruit comes through. Whilst the tannin is still evident, this has a much silkier feel than the last wine. Good acidity, a wine with lots of flesh too. The finish lasts well. A really lovely wine.

A waft of oak is followed by smoke, then in succession, violets, strawberry and redcurrant confiture, ending with caramel and faint vanilla, so many layers – excellent. The palate has excellent density of primarily red fruits, lovely acidity but a very astringent finish. This improves with a minimum 2 hours in a decanter. Too young, but super potential.