As a little reduction lifts this becomes a little musky to go with pretty dark berries. A narrow entry but very silky. Slowly widens across the tongue, but rather understated after the Grèves.
Vougeraie
2009 Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin - Mazoyeres
2008 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
2009 Vougeraie Musigny
Only 700 bottles of this, I’m lucky because a few samples are hand as it’s just being bottled – otherwise it’s not opened. For the first time there are a few stems retained in this. This is also a little tight but shows perfect red berry fruit. Despite what’s gone before, here is another level of concentration and hot on its heel, intensity too. Balanced and cushioned yet somehow everything registers a notch higher than the other wines – I wonder how they do that…(!)
2008 Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Cuvée ‘en foule’. Planted at 36,000 vines per hectare in 2002. This high-density planting returns about two bunches of fruit per vine. Also a little ‘sauvage’. Clearly we have more intensity and a mineral dimension to versus the ‘classic’. Nicely balanced – will surely become ever-more impressive as the vines age.