Thomas-Moillard

2005 Thomas-Moillard Chorey-lès-Beaune

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather mineral and high-toned coupled to faint cherry skins. There’s quite some structure here; furry tannin and plenty of acidity – but the balance is okay. Almost good.

2005 Thomas-Moillard Côte de Nuits Villages

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

A hint of reduction on the nose which eventually leaves to give emphasis on fine cherry/berry notes. The acidity and tannin are to the fore, but not overwhelmingly so.

2003 Thomas-Moillard Nuits St.Georges Les Richemones

By on October 31, 2007 #asides

Roast, stewing fruit on the nose – perhaps rhubarb too – just a little better than it sounds. In the mouth this is altogether more interesting; soft, sweet and concentrated – quite friendly and warming. Not my style, but a ‘comfortable’ wine.

1998 Thomas-Moillard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A rather unnattractively muddy, if deep mahogany red colour. The nose is high-toned but the fruit seems a little cooked in profile, wide but unappealing in a stewed tea kind of way. The tannin rather sticks out and I suppose that this was one of those hideously astringent 98’s in it’s first couple of years, but the tannins have moderated – if only a little. The acidity is quite clean and good and eventually you find the one redeeming feature of the wine; nice fruit in the finish with a creamy edge and an understated length. Only two more lie in the cellar, fortunately, and I expect that in the normal Thomas-Moillard style they won’t be close to mature for at least another 10 years. I think they will always be rather uncouth and lacking style. Shame, as the starting material hints of much more potential. It’s very rare that I ‘waste’ wine, but this bottle was poured down the sink on day 2…

2000 Thomas-Moillard Bonnes-Mares

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus garnet-red colour. The nose starts wide with a deep red core. Time adds a faint cedar with a mint edge that’s subtle enough to add a nice additional complexity rather than an obvious unripe element. The palate offers quite some surprises; the slightly astringent tannins are just a little rustic, but there is depth, plus a shape and acid balance that you would never assume to come from the ripe 2000 vintage. The concentration is ample, and delivered in a fresh and lithe, rather than fat way. The finish shows good, if not amazing length, but there’s a lot of complexity and depth here. It’s a young, rather ‘old school’ wine, but one that brims with value. I’ll revisit ~2012.

2000 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

A lovely medium-plus ruby red colour – still just a hint of cherry red at the rim. The nose starts just a little meaty and beetrooty – not so great – but soon there is creamy black cherry but with a hint of reduction, finally it becomes redder, softer, more floral and much more interesting. This wine equals the concentration of the Bonnes-Mares but with a totally different and much more elegant personality. The tannins are in there somewhere, but the super-smooth, high quality fruit is the main attribute. The finish is borne on nicely judged acidity and again hints towards cream-edged black cherry – oh and it’s excellent – really long. Very young, but this is a wine I should perhaps have gone for the ‘full 12′ rather than the 6, it’s also more ‘honest’ about the vintage than the Bonnes-Mares was; obviously ripe with understated acidity and just a little plump. Versus the 1999 at the same time last year this is all the more interesting, elegant and drinkable – the 99 probably needs 10+ years to excite.

1996 Thomas-Moillard Corton Clos du Roi

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

A medium-plus ruby-red core. The nose is about iron and soft, sweet, musky notes topped with fainter blackberry. Linear and intense, this is classic 1996 with mouth-watering acidity and a faint but lingering length. It’s a very clean, concentrated and tidy wine that’s showing little in the way of development and will probably require at least another 5 years to turn a little friendly…

1999 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is about primary black-edged fruit and a strong spicy/cedar and mineral component – eventually you can get at a tight core of red currant/berry fruit plus a little cooked meat. The palate is still quite linear with a concentrated but mineral showing and plenty of slightly grainy but ripe tannin. Good acidity, the finish doesn’t seem amazingly long, but this is a very primary showing – good if rather brawny stuff – no need to recheck for another 5 years.

1991 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on July 31, 2006 #asides

Given the primary showing of the 1999 I though it would be good to compare it to this more mature bottle – wrong. Same colour, same nose, same flavours, same apparent level of maturity. Hmm – I think it will be a long wait for those 1999’s! Actually the nose is a little more fruit driven and the texture is silkier – but not such a difference for 8 more years in the cellar.

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