Medium colour. Initially not an obvious 03 nose, it retains the hallmarks of the rest of its family, high-toned fresh fruit, and a hint of coffee mixed with the smoky notes. Also the palate is quite fresh and concentrated, but without the ponderous effects often seen in 03. Architypal 03 finish that is about concentrated dry-extract rather than elegance. Very good for the vintage.
From a steep section of 37 year-old vines in the Clos, mixed with 5% Pinot Gris also from the Clos. High-toned, sweet floral esters over a base of passion-fruit. Apparently this exotic aspect is very typical for the cuvée, taking 5-6 years to resemble a more typical white burgundy. Good mouthfeel, seems relatively low acidity but Olivier comments that it is ‘average’ and that the exotic aspects and richness are probably hiding it a little. An interesting extra dimension of flavour on the mid-palate, melting into a very interesting medium-length finish. Slowly takes on a more honeyed aspect in the glass. Seriously interesting, a Nuits version of Meursault Gouttes d’Or perhaps. Regarding longevity the domaine always assumed it was better to drink this wine on the younger side, but apparently wines from the late 80’s are very nice still.
Medium, medium-plus colour. Dark and deep in character with a faintly spicy edge. There is a higher level of tannin, though velvety, and extra dimensions of dark fruit on the palate. Well balanced, though certainly more masculine in style. Good length and interesting aspect to the acidity as it seems to ‘melt’ the tannins in the finish – a very interesting and impressive wine.
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. Tight but still fresh and high-toned. Slowly gives up a more creamy depth. Lovely mouthfeel, really silky, well-balanced and elegant. Very complex and long. The tannins stay on your teeth to remind you of the experience – now a nice floral aspect is developing in the glass too. Lovely.
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Starts a little tight and diffuse, taking a few minutes to develop more depth and with it precise red & black cherry fruit. More delicate and precise that the 01 l’Arlot. Lots of complexity, and good acidity – this is a seriously lovely wine and beautifully presented in 2001.
Medium colour. The nose is denser than the other l’Arlots, more plummy and mature, hints of rose petal – atypical fruit profile. Apparently the wine was like this since it was in barrel – the domaine were a little concerned, but as the wine continues to remained stable they are less and less worried about it tumbling into early maturity. It seems less precise than the other wines but has a nice ‘gras’ and mouthfeel. Atypical l’Arlot, a nice wine but I prefer the clarity and precision of the previous bottles.
Medium-plus colour. The nose has Arlot’s characteristic smokiness but is covered with toasty oak. The oak dissipates to leave higher toned red fruit (again a strawberry complexion) than the last wine. Immediately fatter and denser though the acidity carries the wine well giving excellent balance. The tannins are a little more forward still though again with nice mouthfeel. This wine will need even longer than its baby brother, personally I wouldn’t touch another for at least 5-8 years when it will be a very good wine.
Medium colour. The nose is jump-out-of-the-glass stuff, an almost baked strawberry-red fruit but much of this baked effect comes from the dry, smokey base. If this is the young-vines wine I’m looking forward to the bigger brother, there’s sweet fruit that has a good extra kick in the finish – slightly creamy too. The tannins have medium-plus strength with good texture and just a slight bitterness in the finish too. Needs another two or three years for maximum friendliness but tasty and with some character.
Medium colour that fades to salmon pink at the rim. The nose starts with an almost overwhelming smokey note – there’s sweet red berries and strawberry too – even after an hour in the glass the smoke is still there though on a lower level, reminds me of Dujac’s ’95 Clos de la Roche. Fat and sweet with a very silky mouthfeel and little noticeable tannin. The finish is a long one that’s redolent of the smokey nose. Quite an individual wine and one that I’ll be really interested to follow the development.