The nose doesn’t offer the instant ‘to die for’ gratification of the Cotetidot 86 Clos de Vougeot, but it also far from disappointing; there’s a savoury, slightly saline impression that I assume has its roots in oak – although it’s a little tight, it’s also quite inviting. Given time the nose develops a more earthy depth. Silky, with grand-cru fat, this shows a little of that saline element in the flavour too, coupled to slightly oaky bitterness. The mid-palate just bursts forward with minerality and a selection of dried fruits; sweet currant and fig flavours stain your palate, eventually gaining a faint creaminess. The first of these 86s where I’m not delaying the next pour!
Medium ruby-red, just a hint of amber at the rim. For the first hour or so there was very interesting, truffley red fruit with an undercurrent of mushrooms, after an hour, no mushrooms and rather a minty red fruit with a little herb crust – from 4 bottles opened over 10 days, this was the only one with the mushrooms. Over the tongue it has a comforting texture and just enough acidity to balance the warm fruit. The tannin can still be found if you chew. Quite smooth in a non-traditional Fixin way. A good, sweet finish – as mature as is possible whilst still retaining real fruit flavours. I think I could drink a few of these heartwarming bottles during the closing summer weeks.
Medium, medium-pale ruby red. A nice, rather aged but still fruity nose edged with a little funk. In the mouth the fruit is okay, but the remnants of the tannin still show an astringent edge – this must have been close to undrinkable in its youth! It’s quite long and it’s a tasty length, but the fruit is way ahead of the tannin in termes of the age curve. I wouldn’t touch another for 5 years and I still think it will be a long way from silky.