Esmonin Frédéric

1999 Esmonin Frédéric Mazy-Chambertin

By on May 01, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus colour, still with some last vestige of cherry-red. Right from pouring, cold – say 12°-ish – the nose was just a gorgeously smooth interpretation of macerating dark cherry – wow! The palate, however, was tight, linear, hinting towards tannin but delivering only a dark, faintly oaky but very long finish. As the contents of the glass slowly warm the nose adds a little coffee though slightly tightens, the flavours are expanding though, and with them, the tannin seems to be diminishing. Eventually a herbal complexity fills out the aromas. The palate becomes more intense and builds a sweetness – not a ripe vintage, confiture type of sweetness, rather an intensity of sweetness at the back of the palate. A very young, but very rewarding performance – I really wish I’d bought more, not just this wine, but Mazy (Mazis) in general.

1999 Esmonin Frédéric Ruchottes-Chambertin

By on May 01, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour – paler than the Mazy. The nose starts quite dark and oaky – some dark toast notes that take at least 30 minutes to lift. Redder, less dense fruit is the result, though the dark oak slowly turns to make a nice coffee ‘coating’. Nicely balanced concentration with background velvet tannin. Truth be told it has more of a 1er cru weight, the only distinct grand cru element is the mid-palate flavour – pretty red fruit with a distinct creamy edge and excellent length. Some distance behind the quality of the Mazy, and there are probably better premier crus, but they will cost more than this bottle – value has always been the watchword on the Esmonin GCs, and there is plenty of value in this bottle.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on April 01, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. The nose is rather mature and quite ripe with an undertow of undergrowth and eventually chocolate. After the last 1993 this is fuller and riper with apparently lower acidity. There is a medium-plus length of finish and very understated structure. I would characterise this as a very friendly and ‘cosy’ wine – particularly for a 93 – one to curl up with. Possibly not a wine for the ages but it’s coming into a nice drinking window now.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Griotte-Chambertin

By on March 01, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red, only fading a little. The nose starts just a little woody but this quickly fades to give a true griottes nose of focused red fruit. The palate has good fat and perfect acidity. The tannins, though smooth, are more present than in either of the other two cuvées. Despite everything being in place this wine is more one-dimensional than the others – needs more time – perfectly enjoyable for that and very good wine.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Mazis-Chambertin

By on March 01, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour fading to an amber rim. The nose starts a real joy, coffee and caramel notes intertwine with a little ash and tobacco – all supported by a sweet and piercing morello cherry – this slowly becomes the dominant note. The palate is fat and sweet with resolved tannin and a raisined fruit finish that is as persistent as it is tasty. No rush to finish, but perfect drinking today, a super-enjoyable wine – but should a Mazy be a little more sauvage?

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Ruchottes-Chambertin

By on March 01, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour though there’s more of an amber caste than the Mazy. The nose shows more oak, but this slowly fades to leave chocolate cake, plum and eventually a toasty cherry note. The palate has good fat and sweet, slowly fading fruit. The tannin is fully resolved though the acidity shows just a little tartness at the end. Less rounded than the Mazy, but despite the tart finish, more than pleasant.

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