Esmonin Frédéric

1999 Esmonin Frédéric Ruchottes-Chambertin

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour – paler than the Mazy. The nose starts quite dark and oaky – some dark toast notes that take at least 30 minutes to lift. Redder, less dense fruit is the result, though the dark oak slowly turns to make a nice coffee ‘coating’. Nicely balanced concentration with background velvet tannin. Truth be told it has more of a 1er cru weight, the only distinct grand cru element is the mid-palate flavour – pretty red fruit with a distinct creamy edge and excellent length. Some distance behind the quality of the Mazy, and there are probably better premier crus, but they will cost more than this bottle – value has always been the watchword on the Esmonin GCs, and there is plenty of value in this bottle.

1999 Esmonin Frédéric Griotte-Chambertin

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour – still with a little cherry-red shimmer. The nose has a mineral, earthy edge before swirling releases dried currant fruits, finally lovely red berry fruit – even hints of raspberry – hmmm. Intense concentration abetted by perfect acidity. The tannin is is just a little more than ‘background’, and certainly has an astringent edge. I’m bowled over – a Griotte with real character and a little extra dimension in the mid-palate – a Gevrey dimension at that. Chalk and cheese versus the 02 Fourrier – today I’d much, much rather drink this. Character is king…

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium colour. The nose is rather mature and quite ripe with an undertow of undergrowth and eventually chocolate. After the last 1993 this is fuller and riper with apparently lower acidity. There is a medium-plus length of finish and very understated structure. I would characterise this as a very friendly and ‘cosy’ wine – particularly for a 93 – one to curl up with. Possibly not a wine for the ages but it’s coming into a nice drinking window now.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Mazis-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour fading to an amber rim. The nose starts a real joy, coffee and caramel notes intertwine with a little ash and tobacco – all supported by a sweet and piercing morello cherry – this slowly becomes the dominant note. The palate is fat and sweet with resolved tannin and a raisined fruit finish that is as persistent as it is tasty. No rush to finish, but perfect drinking today, a super-enjoyable wine – but should a Mazy be a little more sauvage?

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Ruchottes-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour though there’s more of an amber caste than the Mazy. The nose shows more oak, but this slowly fades to leave chocolate cake, plum and eventually a toasty cherry note. The palate has good fat and sweet, slowly fading fruit. The tannin is fully resolved though the acidity shows just a little tartness at the end. Less rounded than the Mazy, but despite the tart finish, more than pleasant.

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red, only fading a little. The nose starts just a little woody but this quickly fades to give a true griottes nose of focused red fruit. The palate has good fat and perfect acidity. The tannins, though smooth, are more present than in either of the other two cuvées. Despite everything being in place this wine is more one-dimensional than the others – needs more time – perfectly enjoyable for that and very good wine.

2001 Esmonin Frédéric Chambertin

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus cherry with some purple. Understated nose but has lovely purity if you swirl enough. Again concentrated fruit here. Good acidity and full tannins, Even more concentrated than the last wine. Also very fine.

2001 Esmonin Frédéric Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on June 30, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus cherry. Subdued nose again, but sweet cherry pies in the background. This has lovely fruit. Good tannins and long acidity. Fine.

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