1995 Dujac Morey St.Denis

By billn on September 12, 2011

Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even redcurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three or four more of these.

1995 Dujac Morey St.Denis

By on December 01, 2009 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour with a faint browning at the rim. The nose is sweet and rather stemmy, there’s a faint beefy note that has me flirting with the notion of brett, and some mixed herbs. In the mouth the wine starts narrow, slowly opening over tongue. The acidity is a little sharp and metallic in flavour, it makes you forget to look for tannin, which whilst understated, is still a little blocky. Reasonable length and some sweetness, but today, no love.

2007 Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes

By on July 01, 2009 #asides

These vines were mainly planted in two tranches in 1987 and 1991. Medium colour – just a little deeper than the villages. This beautiful nose that just hints towards stems is just so fine and soft but offers beautiful depth. Silky texture with a super dimension of creamy fruit. The finish lingers with a little oak bitterness – this will fade. I think this wine is gorgeous.

2007 Dujac Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts

By on July 01, 2009 #asides

This was previously a small cuvée for the domaine – 0.024 hectares, replanted in 1987. The addition of the 0.5 ha Moillard plot changes that. The vines were neighbouring and much older so the character of the domaine’s wine is now changing. They have moved them from cane to spur pruning and in this transition phase for the vines they are experiencing low yields. On the nose there’s a taught beadth of red fruit that overlays a faint muskiness. Very silky in the mouth, understated creamy intensity (maybe it’s only understated because it follows the Clos de la Roche!) in the mid-palate. Again, a long, mineral and satisfying finish.

2007 Dujac Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts

By on July 01, 2009 #asides

This is a little more ethereal on the nose – not so much impact – the red fruits slowly take on more clarity. If I may not have guess Malconsorts on the nose, there is ample demonstration in the mouth-filling flavours; width, dimension and complexity. Again there’s a minerality that travels the full length of the considerable finish.

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