After the Amoureuses the nose is broader, less refined but full of energy – like the premier cru there is a hint of background spice. Mouth-filling with soft tannin and juicy fruit – actually for the first time I have an impression in my mind of ‘risotto rice’ for the tannins – soft but still with a little bite of crunchy texture at their core. François says this can be a characteristic of the ‘terres rouges’ where the domaine’s vines are planted. Long finishing, this wine is not as forceful as some vintages, but I like it all the more for that. Excellent.

The nose is a little spicy, yet at the core mineral too – less fruit-driven than the previous wines. Lots of fresh dimension and concentration in the mouth. The flavour keeps building long after you swallow – very long finishing. Excellent, just don’t mention the price.

Higher-toned, more giving aromatics of depth and interest. Lithe and athletic – it’s like a coiled spring – I don’t know how the energy was contained in the glass. I normally shy away from Bonnes-Mares, but this one stole the show. Beg, borrow or steal to drink this – I will!