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9 notes
1985 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJan. 2011
This showed a little more density and concentration than Bertagna’s 1985 ‘Le Cras’ but was seemingly a little less fine. After 20 minutes in the glass there was a very occasional whiff of something like cork taint. I’m not the most sensitive to TCA, often tasting it before smelling it. This Perrières remained tasty, quite drinkable and nicely in it’s maturity pahase/plateau – but always with a nagging doubt…
2005 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreDec. 2008
Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue though it contributes to a good, slowly lingering finish. Perhaps it was me, but 30 minutes in the acidity seemed okay. Tight, linear fruit with buried soft tannin and an understated, almost ethereal extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate that follows also into the finish. Very excellent but other bottles should be left for at least 10 years.
2004 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreMar. 2006
Tight nose, yet still some interesting high tones and an edge of oak. The palate seems to have just a little extra structure vs the previous wines. Very good length too. This is a very nice wine.
1996 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreMar. 2005
A big, heavy bottle. Deep ruby colour with very little fading. Starts with lots of depth but gradually a piercing red fruit note comes through. Fresh palate with really super, slightly creamy but also slightly saccharin length. Doesn’t have the fatness of the 1993 and it also has a slight grain to the tannin. This wine shows great balance and an ever-changing, in fact exciting nose, I’m looking forward perhaps another 3-5 years to a time when, hopefully, the palate will show as much interest as the fantastic nose and lose that slightly confected saccharin finish.
2002 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJul. 2004
Much deeper colour – almost saturated, also with a purple rim. The nose is less high toned, more black fruit than red. Fatter and more concentrated with a little more acidity and good tannins though not quite as silky as Les Petits Vougeots. More intense, mineral and complex than the Petits Vougeots – a real keeper.
2001 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJul. 2004
Lighter colour than the 2002, a medium cherry red. The nose starts a little leafy and meaty, probably from the oak – not all that exciting – after 10 minutes of coaxing (it’s a cold bottle) it’s transformed into a gorgeous creme brulee with red fruit in the background. The palate is as smooth as silk, medium concentrated but good complexity and acidity. A long finish. Understated and beautifully balanced. A wine that becomes more and more demonstrative with time.
2000 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJul. 2004
The colour’s just a little deeper than 2001. A gorgeous high toned nose that’s very open and wide, tons of red berried fruit. Deep fruit that etches onto your palate. The tannins have a little grab, but are perfectly velvetty. Nice and deep with a lovely flourish on the finish. Another wine that I’ll buy!
1999 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJul. 2004
The colour is quite similar to the 2001, medium cherry red. Despite an impressive depth of black fruit the nose is less giving than the 2000. Obvious fat on the rounded palate with well covered tannins and perfect acidity. Not quite the burst of fruit on the finish that you’ll find on the 2000, but this is a wine biding it’s time. Will be super – together with the 2002,
1993 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreMar. 2004
Very deep ruby in colour – solid to the rim too. The generous nose has warm red confiture over a base of secondary and slightly dusty aromas. Two hours in a decanter loses much of the secondary aromas leaving a faintly spicy cherry. The palate shows surprising (to me) density and silkiness – this is surely the preserve of a grand cru? Good acidity and fine tannins that are close to being resolved. I’m genuinely surprised by the density of this wine, I expect a Vougeot to be a medium weight red-cherry-fruit-affair. Is it the vintage or the winemaking? There doesn’t seem to be any obvious (over) extraction, and despite the density there is balance – did they miss-label their Clos Vougeot? There’s 10+ years left to enjoy this wine – Chapeau!
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