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8 notes

 

 

2008 Gambal Alex, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesApr. 2010
A little more aromatic width and the volume of spice is turned up to a Vosne vernacular. Despite gas on the palate, you can see that this is rounder, softer and fatter than the Savigny, just a hint more tannin too. Also a good length.
2007 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesJul. 2009
A width of aroma that is a little more diffuse than the last wine, the Vosne ’stamp’ is there to see (smell) though. Very nice on the tongue, just a hint of astringency. Pretty rather than profound – but very pretty!
2007 Tremblay Cécile, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesApr. 2009
50-60 year-old vignes which kept 80% of their stems during fermentation. – only 14 days in bottle. High-toned with red-fruit dominated aromas. Lots of concentration and that rare element of ‘gras’. Plenty of structure and long finishing. Complex and far from the fruit-driven ‘mold’ of most here.
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesOct. 2006
Despite 75% whole bunch fermentation this is a deep cherry-red colour. The nose shouts aggressively of funk, reduction, sulfur and oak – nothing else – two hours are insufficient to make an iota of difference. If you leave the bottle (sans cork) upright in a ‘eurocave’ for 36 hours you will end up with something that actually smells of wine; dense but pure red fruit – I get the impression that you might need a week to see any oxidation! But why leave in a eurocave for 36 hours? Easy, what the funk might hide on the nose is there for all to see on the palate – cork taint. Now that’s a big shame (at least it wasn’t his Chambertin!) because there is concentration and a really exectutive texture – the tannins are so fine despite what I assume to be significant extraction. Ignoring the taint, this is mightily impressive wine though if you want to drink now I suggest early preparation – 8 hours in a decanter with lots of air would be my starting point or, better still, opening the night before and leaving the open bottle to overnight in the fridge.
2001 En Truffière (Vincent Girardin), Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesMar. 2006
Medium-plus colour, more ruby than cherry-red. The nose is deep, slightly peppery and is ringed with sweet (as opposed to toasty) oak. Good balance, very good acidity, drying but not rustic tannin and a finish that is, like the nose, ringed with sweet oak influence and creamy notes. Plenty of concentration, a very good value wine.
2004 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesMar. 2006
From 3 parcels of vines. Both depth and width on the nose, but just a little linear today, black edged fruit. Nice concentration. Some structure – the tannins have some grain. Clean, good concentration and deep but today tight in presentation.
2003 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesNov. 2005
Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose settles to bright red cherry with an edge of red berry fruit over a deeper, bubbling base. The fruit on the palate easily cuts through a swathe of tannin. There’s good concentration and it’s very enjoyable. It still comes over as cool and burgundian rather than hot and bothered. Frankly I expect it’s a wine for the short to medium term as the tannin could dominate if the fruit recedes. It’s been a bit of a crowd pleaser for guests at home this summer – particularly those shiraz lovers…
2003 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesJul. 2005
No VV label on the 2002 – what a difference a year makes. Deep crimson (blue-shade red actually). The nose at room temperature is quite diffuse but faint spice and deep, sweet black fruit lay in wait. Cool the wine to 15°C and it’s altogether tighter and in some ways (if you wait long enough) reminds me of 1993. Dense, indeed intense, mouth-watering acidity (Burghound notes no acidification in 03) and tannins that are very well covered by the extract. Very 2003 but it’s big fun too. As well-made as any in 2003 and very good value (~17€), I’ll have to try and visit this year.
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