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2009 Lamarche Francois, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsApr. 2011
Dark and brooding fruit on the nose – warming the glass brings a burst of dark spice. Full and wide in the mouth – plenty of structure too; the tannin has a hint of dryness, but that’s wood tannin and will fade the quickest.
2009 Clos Frantin, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsMar. 2011
Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbs mixing through plenty of high-tones. Full, more structure than the 08 Amoureuses, slightly sticky tannin and absolutely flavour-packed. The overall profile is very ripe but this is clearly a wine that rewards a little wallowing…
2008 Clos Frantin, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsMar. 2011
Beautiful top to bottom aromas though less width than the 09, eventually with coffee and a little baked, spiced bread. There is plenty of tannin here – well structured. Fine flavours show themselves as your mouth waters for more.
2002 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsSep. 2010
Medium colour. This has limited aromatic width, but what depth! There’s a lot of Vosne about the nose; spice, ginger and warmer fruit at the base. In the mouth this has something in common with the nose – not really a grand cru impact, but absolutely a grand cru complexity, mid-palate dimension and finish – the acidity focusing and extending the length. This is seriously good and much more open than I had right to expect from a 2002. Lovely wine.
2008 Roche de Bellene, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsJul. 2010
The same understatement as the Petits Monts. There’s a little extra fat but essentially the same post-bottling tightness as the last wines.
1986 Lamarche Francois, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsMay. 2010
I guess it has been stored almost inverted as there is such a thick layer of brown mud (sediment) attached to the base of the cork. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is understated but clean, a tight core of macerated and ripe fruit at its centre. This seems to have an almost grand cru level of fat, understated acidity and a rasp to the tannin – though not as astringent as yesterday’s Mazis. Like the nose, the flavours are clean but tight – this wine has some class, but is clearly going to make me wait if I want complexity. Even at the three hour stage the nose is a glossy but understated thing, perhaps a faint beefy depth begins to show. The palate develops a liqueur quality with a very faint suggestion of oxidation. Overall this drinks very well indeed.
1997 Cathiard Sylvain, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsDec. 2009
This was altogether a different kettle of fish next to the 97 Pavelot Doiminode. I’ve had some lovely open and friendly bottles from this case, but this wasn’t one of them. It wasn’t unfriendly, rather it was uncommunicative. Clearly cut from the same vintage cloth as the Pavelot, but tighter in all aspects – no plateau of maturity here. A little more intense in the mid-palate, but as a pure object of pleasure, bettered by the Pavelot today.
2007 Dujac, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsJul. 2009
This is a little more ethereal on the nose – not so much impact – the red fruits slowly take on more clarity. If I may not have guess Malconsorts on the nose, there is ample demonstration in the mouth-filling flavours; width, dimension and complexity. Again there’s a minerality that travels the full length of the considerable finish.
2007 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Les MalconsortsJul. 2009
The nose is wide and slightly fecund, spicy too – quite consistent for this cuvée. Good sweetness and plenty of tannin, though the tannin is about texture rather than astringency – a nice extra dimension in the mid-palate before slowly lingering. Lovely.
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