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2007 Tardy Jean, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesJan. 2012
Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at green. The texture is reasonably smooth, and seems to have an element of weight – tannin is there as a faint rasp on the end of your tongue. Decent length in a red register. I expect this had a bit better balance 18 months ago; today it’s far from seemless, the acidity just seems to be approaching ‘sharp’ if not quite there yet, though sweet and sour with emphasis on the sour could certainly be used. Day three: (only stoppered and left at about 17°C) and this wine is suddenly delicious; all herbal references have faded to relative insignificance and the fruit has a beguiling, understated sweetness – how did that happen? I don’t know, but I’d buy it again now!
2009 Lamarche Francois, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesApr. 2011
The nose is quite lovely, if a little understated after the last wines – more high-toned and elegant. There is more tannin again and a flavour that is nicely Vosne; good freshness and long-lasting dark fruit and mineral flavour to finish.
2005 Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesFeb. 2010
Deeply coloured. The nose has dark, brambly fruit and plenty of spicy, herbal aspects. In the mouth the acidity has become a little forward though far from overwhelming. A lovely borderline ripe flavour that has a hint of mint to go with its piercingly long finish – there’s added depth through the mid-palate. Rather smooth, this is very good now – even if it’s on its ’sleeptime downslope’. Very-much enjoyed.
2007 Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesJul. 2009
About one third whole clusters used for this wine. Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas are less intense than the Beaune, but they are more round and much more complex, slowly they take on more focus and a redder colour. In the mouth this is complex and exciting with an intense spine. The finish shows a little oak, but it’s a long finish.
2007 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesJul. 2009
Not often you are served a Chaumes after a Malconsorts, but here the fruit aromas are darker and edged with caramel. IN the mouth it is softer and a hint sweeter than the Malconsorts – I initially thought it was shown out of sequence, but there’s an impressively intense concentration of fruit in the mid-palate. Again some faint astringency to the tannin – this is a super Chaumes.
2007 Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesApr. 2009
Not so focused but clearly more complex aromas. Full and friendly impression in the mouth. There is plenty of tannin, but you really have to chew to find it. Slowly, slowly lingering. A very pretty wine.
2007 Arnoux Robert, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesApr. 2009
Rather narrow aromas, but the linear beam of fruit is focused and goes quite deep. Good width and dimension in the mouth and with very nice mid-palate fruit. Not as sharply dressed as the previous two wines, but very good.
2006 Tardy Jean, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesDec. 2008
Spicy, high-toned fruit, and very focused fruit on the rather classy nose. Ripe, strucured and complex – tannin that clings to your lips. Slowly lingering, this is a big surprise, it’s excellent and over-achieves for Chaumes.
2005 Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesApr. 2008
Medium cherry-red. You are greeted by wide, concentrated and bright nose, faintly alcoholic with red and black fruit and a gradually developing creamy background – perhaps a hint of green pepper is the only clue to ‘vosne’. Lovely texture and concentration, the tannins are completely enveloped by the ripe fruit, but enough freshness remains. A slow diminuendo of a finish rolling on with the acidity. At the right price, this is an easy rebuy.
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