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9 notes

 

 

1995 Rion Daniel, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsOct. 2011
Medium-plus colour. The nose here is of just faintly roasted, spice-edged deep red fruit – not roasted enough to be off-putting but enough to be slightly sub-optimal for me – but it’s wide and involving and rather forward too. In the mouth this has a concentrated, velvet texture that if you really roll the wine around in your mouth becomes slowly a little astringent – but that’s your choice! Full flavoured with plenty of intensity and a very good underlying acidity – there’s almost a hint of almond flavour in the finish, bitter chocolate too, which is probably barrel-derived – but eventually majors of a mouth-watering mineral note. Highly drinkable despite a nose that punches you, rather than seduces you.
1999 Rion Daniel, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsMay. 2010
Medium, medium plus colour. The nose starts with a waft of dark, dank, slightly reduced, earthy toast that fades to be replaced with a slowly building crescendo of dark and impressive cherry fruit. Good, perhaps slightly lifted acidity abets the mid-palate intensity and length. The fruit in the mid-palate has a nice high-toned impression and the lingering note of the finish is stony/mineral. Acid-o-philes will like this a lot, I did!
2007 Rion Daniel, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsDec. 2009
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with ultra-young barrel-type fruit aromas, Slowly it beds down to good red fruit with a very understated spice background and eventually lovely red berries. Fresh, slightly plump red fruit that finds an additional if understated mid-palate dimension, relatively fine tannin and a lingering finish. Not much power here, but fine and elegant. Very pretty.
2007 Dujac, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsJul. 2009
This was previously a small cuvée for the domaine – 0.024 hectares, replanted in 1987. The addition of the 0.5 ha Moillard plot changes that. The vines were neighbouring and much older so the character of the domaine’s wine is now changing. They have moved them from cane to spur pruning and in this transition phase for the vines they are experiencing low yields. On the nose there’s a taught beadth of red fruit that overlays a faint muskiness. Very silky in the mouth, understated creamy intensity (maybe it’s only understated because it follows the Clos de la Roche!) in the mid-palate. Again, a long, mineral and satisfying finish.
2007 Clavelier Bruno, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsApr. 2009
This is also wide and interesting but the aromas have more depth. Wow! Complexity of fruit and herbs, good tannin and a lovely mix of flavours in the mid-palate. Super length too. A super wine.
2007 Grivot Jean, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsApr. 2009
High tones dominate, perhaps a little diffuse but over a good core of red fruit. Wow – density and ‘gras’ that few of the 1ers replicate – yet with good balancing acidity. Plenty of ripe tannin, super wine here with a tannin-laden finish.
2007 Perrot-Minot Christophe, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsApr. 2009
Not as deeply coloured as the villages wine. Perhaps a hint of reduction on the nose. Good but not exceptional width, but the real interest lies in the mid-plate where there is dimension and complexity. Decent finish.
2004 Bertagna, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsMar. 2006
Tight-shut, swirling eventually brings a little sweetness. Palate has furry tannin – quite velvety. Lovely depth to the fruit and good length. Some complexity here – this is a super wine.
1999 Potel Nicolas, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsMar. 2005
I think that the majority of my previous Beaux-Monts have failed to inspire – this one managed to avoid that fate by some margin. Medium-plus cherry-red colour. A lovely nose that combines Vosne-spice with a dense base of ripe red fruit that slowly takes on a higher-toned aspect – still quite primary – but does develop a more caramel aspect with time. The style is that of a middle-weight prize-fighter, taught, lean muscle with no extra pounds. Quite fresh and intense, excellent acidity and well hidden tannins. Doesn’t quite show the intensity of finish of the Drouhin and Jadot wines but matches their ultimate length. A young and very interesting thoroughbred that my tasting partners rated even higher than me!
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