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5 notes

 

 

1997 Arnoux Robert, Vosne-Romanée Aux ReignotsDec. 2011
The nose starts broad and faintly of dark oak – slowly a pungent, dark, coconut cream begins to fill the glass, only very slowly are the granular, spicy notes one expects of Vosne to be found. In the glass this starts with a silky texture and a slightly bright though smooth acidity – which is the main component through the centre of the wine and into it’s finish. As the wine warms in the glass the finish first pads out with some of the dark flavours that match the nose. Over three hours this wine remains steady as a rock; acid led but not too much, with a freshness and stance that belies the vintage. I would say this is still very-much young and primary, it is certainly excellent in the context of the vintage.
1997 Arnoux Robert, Vosne-Romanée Aux ReignotsMay. 2009
Starts with dark, slightly dirty oak and some forest floor – slowly the forest floor fades to leave the oak and a slight roast coffee ground plus much fainter, greener herbal note – there is a little spiciness, but this is interesting, rather than captivating . Some sweetness though it is ‘balanced’ by acidity that’s a little tart and a lick of slightly astringent tannin. The sweetness is associated with the fruit, mainly red shaded in this vintage and hinting at cream too. There’s enough here to make me interested to try other vintages, but this wine is a poster-child to ‘not quite there 1997?. I gave it a bit more of a chance and left the last third for day 3 (day 2 I was out!) – hints of red berry, less oak and more balance. Still far from worth the normal sticker price, but there is now some interest here. Another bottle will rest in the cellar until its 15th birthday or-so.
2004 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Aux ReignotsJul. 2006
Deeper colour again. A deeper nose to match, with glossy cherry notes that are much closer to black fruit than any other wine. More structure, this is the only wine in the cave that shows a little grain to the tannin. It’s a bold yet rather tight wine, surprisingly Louis-Michel said he opened this about 6 hours earlier and it’s quite open vs then! Again super length – more linear in character than the Chaumes.
2003 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Aux ReignotsNov. 2004
Medium colour. The nose is totally different to all the other wines – slightly reductive – in the background, there’s red fruit that grows in prominence in the glass, lovely purity, the nose becomes higher toned with time. Louis-Michel thinks this reductive aspect is down to the terroir, he says that the 2002 behaved in exactly the same way. Eventually develops a coffee note on the nose. Poised, silky palate that’s very fruit forward – the essence of rich red cherries.
2002 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Aux ReignotsNov. 2004
Whilst less forward than the 2003 Reignots, the nose shows a distinct family resemblance. Not just a beautiful depth to the fruit but also width too. It’s ripe fruit is very tightly wound and really needs an hour or two in a decanter. Slowly develops a nice coffee note. Very, very good.
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