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3 notes

 

 

1999 Remoriquet Henri & Gilles, Vosne-Romanée Aux Dessus des MalconsortsDec. 2009
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose slowly opens over about 25 minutes, hints of spice, warm dark fruit and a slightly strange mineral/coal note. Over the tongue, it’s balanced and quite intense, some grain still from the tannin, but that strange aroma is also their as a flavour too. Previous bottles were fine so perhaps this strange flavour is a one-off – it was anyway more of a background note on day two.
2007 Remoriquet Henri & Gilles, Vosne-Romanée Aux Dessus des MalconsortsApr. 2009
Slightly jammy and spicy nose that only gradually fills the glass. Sweeter fruit than the Nuits, very complex if less intense. Seems much longer finishing though. Very pretty indeed.
1999 Remoriquet Henri & Gilles, Vosne-Romanée Aux Dessus des MalconsortsApr. 2007
Medium-plus colour – only the faintest traces of cherry-red still remain. The nose is absolutely splendid; forward, very wide, mineral, a little feral, hints of coffee, spice and spruce – it could only come from Vosne, and though it misses a touch of decorum, such is the complexity that you would expect (blind) that it was a very good grand cru. The bar is now set and I’m judging this wine to grand cru standards: The palate starts with a blast, wide interesting and complex – there’s little fat. It slowly fades rather than expands. Under their blanket of fruit the tannins are a little grainy and the finish is in the ‘good but great’ category. This is an excellent 1er cru but misses a little mid-palate density and length for a truly fine grand cru. All the same, this is open for business and is a very ‘giving’ wine that brims with complexity and interest – if not elegance. Highly recommended…
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