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16 notes

 

2008 Bouley Jean-Marc, Volnay Clos des ChênesOct. 2010
Lovely and floral, the high-tones skirt over a deeper, tighter base. This is actually rather mineral and detailed. The flavour slowly expanding in the mid-palate and following through into the finish. Lovely.
2008 Roche de Bellene, Volnay Clos des ChênesJul. 2010
Beautiful fruit aromas again, and backed with violets this time. Super concentration, texture and balance – wow – I’m in!
2004 Jadot Louis, Volnay Clos des ChênesDec. 2009
Medium, medium-pale colour. The nose was largely absent for the first few minutes, only a slightly dense impression. Slowly it opens, eventually delivering wide, high-toned perfume that is clearly edged with the 2004 character – but here it’s character, rather than the oppression it delivers in many other wines. In the mouth this is very Jadot in its fine but narrow impression, born on super acidity – like so many ‘neither young nor mature’ wines from this producer. Fine, without power or intensity, yet there is subtlety and lovely delivery. For my own taste, this wine is as close as I can get to recommending, despite its obvious vintage character.
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay Clos des ChênesApr. 2009
A domaine wine whose back-label proclaims the grapes to be ‘biologique’ and that all operations were done according to the lunar calendar. Medium-plus colour. Brooding aromatics but there are glimpses of very fine fruit that slowly turns redder in the glass. Concentrated, lots of very fine tannin that’s largely submerged under fruit – and what fruit it is – intense and edged with cream – it lingers very well too. It doesn’t merit the tag ‘elegant’, rather ‘muscular’ would be better and I think that maybe 2005 is a little early to be influenced by Bernard Zito and Pascal Marchand, but it is a definite rebuy.
1998 Leroy (Maison), Volnay Clos des ChênesDec. 2008
Deep ruby-red colour. The nose is herbal and meaty with background sweetness and quite some sense of maturity. In the mouth there is the rasp of ‘98 tannins, but they are rather a background element. More to the fore is the sweet but freshly packaged fruit – quite some secondary flavour development again with some of that herbal element and lots of sweet and wide mid-palate flavour. Complex and very well balanced with plenty of time on it’s side it’s a world away from 2005/2006’s but that’s no negative. This is actually not bad value for a Leroy and I may indeed buy a couple more for 5-10 years down the line.
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Clos des ChênesApr. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose relatively high-toned with a faintly caramel background. Ripe fruit, super acidity, plenty of controlled tannin and a dark-oak background. Quite pleasurable already this wine.
2005 Guyon Antonin, Volnay Clos des ChênesApr. 2008
The nose starts tight, a wider alcoholic tone over a tight kernel of fruit – opens beautifully in the glass with lovely fruit. The palate is quite fresh and linear but provides a super burst of fruit in the mid-palate that slowly lingers in the finish. Far from the best Volnay in 2005, but it’s very, very lovely.
1983 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay Clos des ChênesApr. 2008
Earthy chocolate mixes perfecty with the savoury notes. Lovely acidity and tons of flavour delivered with a soft touch. A slowly lingering sweet finish to round off – Super
2005 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay Clos des ChênesNov. 2007
This is from relatively young vines. A very pleasant and softly perfumed nose with faint caramel. In the mouth this shows plenty of structure and good acidity – there is quite some furry tannin too. This is subtly long despite the structure slightly dominating right now. This is from relatively young vines. A very pleasant and softly perfumed nose with faint caramel. In the mouth this shows plenty of structure and good acidity – there is quite some furry tannin too. This is subtly long despite the structure slightly dominating right now.
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