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11 notes

 

2007 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotDec. 2009
Medium, medium-plus color. Aromas that are wider, initially a little more diffuse, eventually spiced-bread over dark, pure fruit and a floral note. In the mouth there’s sweetness from the ripe fruit, velvet texture after the silk of the ‘Grèves’. Slowly lingering and complex. Very good.
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotDec. 2009
The nose shows a width of creamy red fruit and perhaps has a rose-petal dimension too – really very pretty. Plenty of concentration, the tannin is slightly forward but of velvet texture. A good additional fruit dimension in the mid-palate with understated but balancing acidity. The flavour of the finish remains very barrel-influenced today, but is very long. Will be super.
1994 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotApr. 2009
Surprisingly deep colour, amber at the rim. The nose starts tight and dense, faintly savoury too, time adds a greeny, herbal note – but not unlikeable. In the mouth it has more than decent concentration for the vintage, similarly decent acidity and a grained tannin that retains a little astringency. The fruit has some sweetness, yet there’s still a bit of bitterness in the finish – I have the impression that the tannin grain and and the bitterness are both barrel derived. Overall this stays rather clunky even if there’s not much here to particularly dislike – or indeed like!
2004 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotDec. 2008
Medium ruby-red. Depth and dimension on the nose – really grandstanding at the moment, and the oak is barely perceptible. Mouth-filling and concentrated, there’s good depth and plenty of tannin. There is a little oak flavour, but nothing compared to what its 05 and 06 cousins currently show. The finish is a little warm, but long. Very well balanced and has the sweet fruit which is the hallmark of the vintage. In a lovely place right now, but no need to rush.
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotApr. 2008
A little softer, red fruits and faintly floral. In the mouth too, soft and a little silky with sweet fruit. There’s a little burst of complexity in the mid-palate before you are hit by some astringent tannin. I feel the oak showing more on the grainy texture than the aromas or flavours.
2004 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotApr. 2007
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. From cellar temp (15°C) the nose shows several layers; high-toned jellied black fruit at the top, earthier, leathery notes in the middle and lower-down. Leave the glass for a while and it fills with cream and a faint smoke edge – mmm. The palate is quite a departure from the norm in 2004 – lots of faintly grained tannin – but there’s quite enough intensity of black-shaded fruit to match. The acidity takes a little-bit of backseat to the fruit and tannin, just slowly making your mouth water. I might wish for a little more expansion in the mid-palate, but the finish is long with hints of mocha and a bitter young-oak edge. Not the easiest of wines to drink, but no green notes here. This very young wine needs at least three 3 years before revisiting – but it will be worth it – it has the potential to be excellent.
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotApr. 2007
Again with 4 hectares of vines, Bouchard P&F own close to one third of Caillerets. The nose starts in a very understated way; floral, but needs quite some coaxing to show a little more depth and again faint barrel notes. A silky texture covers fruit of understated power – aided by fine acidity the complex flavours just roll over and over your tongue. This is really lovely.
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotNov. 2005
Deep ruby core, still just a hint of cherry at the rim. The nose is dominated by wood when first opened, taking around 30 minutes to start showing coffee and caramel tones. Another hour shows roasting red fruits and gradually higher tones. The palate has first-class texture, acidity that lingers and super length that has a touch of creamy black cherry about it. Not the outright density of the very best, but it’s borne in a very impressive way. Today still far too much wood obscuring its ‘Volnay-ness’ – should be coming round in another 10 years or so.
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée CarnotMar. 2005
Medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts heavy with lightly toasted oak, the palate equally so. Given time for aeration the oak fades by around 75% with sweet fruit of several layers – all of them red. The palate starts with an understated intensity that builds and builds into quite an exciting flourish on the long finish. The tannin has just a little dryness on the finish but is finely grained. This is very good but needs quite a few (several) years though should be excellent.
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