5 notes


2010 Marchand Pascal, Volnay 1er CruMay. 2012
A blend of Angles and Champans which is already bottled. I love the high-toned fruit aromas, but there are also some quite obvious barrel notes padding out the ‘whole’ – they need to fade a bit. There is more tannin than any of the previous wines, but the flavour is also much longer. Currently it’s a shade less elegant than the previous wines, but it has more of everything and has only just been assembled in tank so that might be playing a role.
1997 Lafarge Michel, Volnay 1er CruFeb. 2010
Day 1. Medium rusty-red colour. Despite a certain 1997 ripeness to the fruit aromas, there is something of a cool edge and plenty of herbal notes – overall it’s ruff and gruff – not a lacy picture of Volnay. The leading edge is the acidity, though behind it the tannin is quite fine. The first flavours have a slight oxidised impression, but the best part of the wine is its extra dimension of very nice mid-palate flavour. Overall this wine lacks a lot of charm, and some aspects give me concern for further cellaring – still, this was my last. Day 2. Same room, same time of day – looks less rust coloured (!?) The aromatics have really cleaned up, it’s still slightly austere but a little less herbal. More balance, and that slight oxidised flavour is gone, the fruit has an altogether younger and darker impression – I would even go as far as to say appeal! Whilst still not charming, I would say this is an altogether more ‘correct’ performance – one that indicates the vigour of youth rather than the previous day’s pallor of age… Day 3. Like day 2, but more diffuse. Today the austerity coupled to the loose performance would give it the thumbs down. Interesting that the day 1 problem seemed to be something volatile in the wine – once it was gone, things really came together.
2006 Angerville Marquis d', Volnay 1er CruDec. 2008
Made from 2 parcels of vines. Medium colour. Wide with a nice depth of creamy red fruit. Medium bodied with a very good extension of flavour in the mid-palate. Nice acidity / tannin balance. I like this very much.
2005 Angerville Marquis d', Volnay 1er CruNov. 2007
From 2 assembled 1ers. Just a little simple and clean confiture on the nose. Clean and flavour-packed with slightly prickly acidity but lovely fruit. I would certainly buy this.
1997 Lafarge Michel, Volnay 1er CruMar. 2004
Medium cherry red, just starting to take on a more ruby colour. The nose is of bright red fruits – just a little primary and one-dimensional. The palate is fresh and clean with a quite lovely understated concentration coupled with discrete tannins. Just a little creamy edge to the finish. Showing in a young way and not a typical 1997 style. Very nice.
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