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22 notes

 

 

1985 Gros François, RichebourgJun. 2011
Bottle 79 of 320. The cork easily slides out in one piece – but what a disappointing looking thing – tiny compared to a villages cork from 08. Still, they say size isn’t everything! Medium colour – perfectly clear with just a hint of amber at the rim. Clean smelling, some dried leaves but no obvious fruit to start with, time adds some wet leaves and damp soil too. A narrow, soft and sweet entry but with good acidity and then suddenly there’s tannin in the mouth. Plenty of mid-palate flavour that seems to be molten essence of barrel and perhaps some minerality – much nicer than it sounds and is very complex and very long. The finishing flavours include in their complexity a hint of something volatile and also a hint of something oxidised. Far from seamless, but a wine that offers something new with every sniff and every taste. Lovely, but despite plenty of tannin, seems to be losing a little cohesion – if you have some of the the other 319 bottles I wouldn’t think that they will get better. On day two – despite overnighting in the fridge – too much oxidation for enjoyment.
1988 Gros Anne, RichebourgApr. 2010
Magnum. I’m not sure if Anne had anything to do with this wine, but it wears her label. An aromatic ‘wow’; exciting, fresh, herbal – very complex. Really mouthfilling. Tannic and wide with deep fruits – clearly still a baby!
2007 Gros Anne, RichebourgApr. 2009
The nose is deep and a little oaky, but below shines nice dark fruit. Super in the mouth – almost unexpected after the nose – silky with a concentrated depth yet no overpowering density. Strikingly well balanced.
2007 Gros A-F, RichebourgApr. 2009
A floral top note and sweet red fruit – subtle rather than forceful. In the mouth the fruit is wonderful and the ample tannin straddles the border between silk and velvet. There’s plenty of barrel flavour too, but it can’t obscure the quality of everything around it. Super length and very fine.
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, RichebourgApr. 2009
A very pretty floral aspect to the nose, floating above lovely fruit. Width and complexity and intensity. Then a reprise of the flavours after the mid-plate as you go into a super finish. A wine that’s so good, it plays tricks on you!
2005 Romanée-Conti, RichebourgApr. 2008
A wide nose – not so deep and focused as the Vivant, but rather fine and edged with higher-tones and caramel. After 30 minutes there is more definition and focus with a lovely floral aspect. On the palate the effect is very specific; it stains your tongue with complex flavours – but without apparent weight – now that’s impressive. Faintly furry tannin, super-wide and beautifully textured. I don’t think this wine is showing all it has, but what it does show is completely stunning – a wow wine.
1997 Grivot Jean, RichebourgAug. 2007
(Magnum) Basically blurred and stodgy, no better than the last bottle
1997 Gros A-F, RichebourgAug. 2007
The nose shows some high tones, faint spice and interesting but understated fruit. The palate seems less ripe than some but frankly has tons of complexity and dimension – this will need at least 10 years but might be worth an outside bet.
1994 Méo-Camuzet, RichebourgApr. 2007
Medium colour. The nose is understated but very wide, interesting and clean. The palate is fresh, actually a little racy and mineral with delicate red fruit and a lovely, impressive – yet suble finish. It never comes close to the concentration of the 1990 Chaumes, but it is complex, delicate and lovely with a finish that lingers and lingers. It’s hardly a performance you would expect from Richebourg, but it’s a lovely wine ready for plucking!
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