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2009 Pernot Paul, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresJan. 2011
Like the previous wine, understated but wide – just a little more higher-toned. Fuller in the mouth, silkier too. The acidity is understated but sufficient. I really like the mid-palate flavour and complexity that comes with it – this is lovely to roll around your mouth. Fine.
2008 Château de Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresDec. 2010
Starts deep and very faintly of baked bread, but swirl and the nose has a nice freshness and the fruit behind is high-toned and citrussy . This is a mouthful of energy and joy – blind I might have guessed it to be the 2007 (I must compare!) as the obvious richness of 2008 is hardly visible. Roll the wine around your tongue and the acidity helps develop a fine and mineral flavour – there’s no fat or excess here, just a good mineral end-note. Quite linear, mineral and with a good intensity – it’s my kind of wine, but if this is the performance of a 2008, can I handle the 2007?
2009 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresDec. 2010
A hint of toast (bread) an annual signature of the land, not oak – apparently. Super width, good underlying acidity. Stony tasting. Very good.
2008 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresDec. 2010
Riper fruit that is a little yellow. Here the acidity is perfectly integrated into a whole which further expands in the mid-palate. Rather impressive.
2001 Château de Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresMar. 2010
A rather deep, initially worrysome colour. Fortunately the nose betrays nothing unmentionable though it’s a little heavy, indeed ponderous. In the mouth it’s wide, a little fat and certainly has lots of mid-palate flavour. There is just about enough acidity for balance. The fruit starts sweet but the finish is a little more sour. The finish has a decent length. Whilst this was a beauty when younger, if I had more in the cellar I’d be drinking them all this year.
2003 Jadot Louis, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresApr. 2009
A few hints of oxidation on the nose, but it’s largely fresh and interesting. In your mouth this wine is all over the place and despite evident complexity and some additional dimension – not just oxidation! – in the mid-palate it’s frankly a mess. Poorly judged acidification or just an impossible vintage? I don’t know but it seemed to have plenty of acidity.
2006 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresDec. 2008
Wide and perhaps a little diffuse versus the Clavoillon. More concentration and perhaps it’s a little more vibrant than the Clavoillon, though the finish on this is much more understated. Nice, but I want much more for 145 swiss francs…
2005 Colin-Morey Pierre-Yves, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresApr. 2008
Light colour. Wide aromatics, but starting just a little soft and sweet – time in the glass brings more concentration and focus – it’s very good. Much more power on entry and then a little carbon dioxide spritz. Very wide palate of flavours – a really significant extra dimension. This is a super wine.
2005 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Les FolatièresApr. 2008
Wide and fine with high-toned aromatics. A full-bodied but slightly tight, narrow presentation – not close to the width of flavour offered by the last wine. In overall quality it’s not far behind, but is beaten for aromatics and finish by the Morey.
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