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2004 Boillot Jean, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la MouchèreJul. 2006
Medium lemon-yellow. A nose of baked bread and higher, more diffuse tones. The palate has lovely smooth acidity and a depth of soft but concentrated high-toned fruit. There’s just a quick flash of something that shouts ‘Puligny’ in the mid palate, followed by a long savoury, slightly spicy – perhaps ginger – finish. As usual this is an excellent wine and it’s certainly a ‘buy’, but to drink today I’d put Amoit’s ‘Vergers’ a little ahead based on its fresh citrussy purity and joie-de-vivre.
2002 Boillot Jean, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la MouchèreJul. 2005
As a comparison, I opened this directly after the 02 Jean Boillot villages Puligny. The same medium lemon-yellow. The nose is tighter and less expressive, still deep, but without doubt finer. The palate likewise is a little tighter, with a little more citrus. Where this wine transcends the villages is the haunting finish, it really does go on and on. There we have it, less boisterous than the villages, but with much more finesse and length.
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