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9 notes

 

 

2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsDec. 2009
Medium, medium-pale golden. After the Beaune, the nose is certainly of finer fruit and of similar depth, though less wide. Hints of lanolin and a faint, creamy brioche too. Softer, silkier, just a little narrower on entry, but on super acidity it expands across the palate much more impressively. It’s also very long with a more savoury element than the last bottles. Interestingly, all the constituent parts favour the Puligny tonight, but the ‘team’ performance is not quite as together as the Beaune’s. The Beaune has nothing like the density of the Puligny, and surprisingly seems the more mineral. Day two this is very ‘together’ and the clear leader.
2001 Girardin Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsJul. 2009
Medium gold. The nose majors on a residue of toasty oak and fainter gun-flint aromas. The bottle lasted under an hour, but was actually becoming less interesting with time. After the younger wines of the previous day, this is significantly more mineral and wiry framed. Good acidity and density, yet the flavours do reflect the aromas. Complex for sure but I never really warmed to it – that’s a pure style judgement, so whilst I wouldn’t buy it again for me, I certainly wouldn’t tell you not to.
2007 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsJul. 2009
Bottled end of February, elevage in 50% new oak. Just a little extra yellow colour. This has a beautiful, fine and complex nose that shows plenty of floral aspects. Pure, textured depth seems to whisk you all-too-soon to the finish, but balance is restored as it’s a very long finish. Not a wine of overt power, but the delivery is fantastic, eventually taking on an extra mineral dimension. Double-super!
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsJul. 2008
The nose has less overt width, rather a really dense core of fruit – eventually becomes a little more expressive with a faint brioche note. Clearly more concentration despite lower (13.5%) alcohol. Smooth texture and much more minerality than the villages. The length again is quite savoury and mineral. Super balance. Only ‘very fine’ versus the 2005’s ‘outstanding’, though the value clearly remains.
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsAug. 2007
The nose is not so deep as the Champs-Gains, a little tighter but with a clear extra width. The action here is on the palate; mouthfilling then rather hauntingly and understatedly long. This has tightened since last tasted, the waves of attack are on a lower level. Still very, very classy.
1997 de Montille, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsAug. 2007
(Magnum) The nose is very mineral – the only white in the 1997 line-up that showed this. Tons of dimension on the palate that is is magnified by the citrus acidity. Very long and showing lovely balance. Vintage independant – very, very good
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsApr. 2007
The nose starts wide but subdued and a little unfocused, it takes a good 15 minutes in the glass before we have cohesion and a primary dense stance. There’s a lovely texture to the palate and a real extra dimension helped by just a little petillance and super acidity. It takes the same 15 minutes a as required for the nose to improve for the faint spritz to die – perhaps it was also affecting the aromatics. Now we have poise and from the mid-palate onwards, waves and waves of attack – wow – this will be (is) superb. For thos that are concerned about oxidation, note that about a glass and a half were left in the simply stoppered bottle for about 3 days – the wine was almost as good then and not a hint of oxidation. I rarely go for more than a six-pack of any wine, but I ordered 12 of these!
2001 En Truffière (Vincent Girardin), Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsNov. 2004
Golden colour. The nose starts with a few barrel notes that make the nose slightly buttery, higher tones of lemon too. The palate has good acidity and a nicely intense fruit that follows well into the slightly sweet finish. There is a little harshness on the palate but this will fade. A nice wine.
1999 En Truffière (Vincent Girardin), Puligny-Montrachet CailleretsNov. 2004
Golden colour. Intense nose that is concentrated and very Puligny but shows just a little more buttery character than my preference. The palate is also quite concentrated but to me has an oxidative streak through the middle – others called this honey. I’ll let them buy the bottle instead of me then – good finish though.
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