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2009 Lécheneaut (Philippe et Vincent), Morey St.DenisNov. 2011
There is also plenty of oak on this nose too, set against higher-toned aromas and some herbs. Velvet texture and decent fruit too, very decent! Again the wine is served with plenty of oak, but it’s a very good wine for all that.
1995 Dujac, Morey St.DenisSep. 2011
Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even redcurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three or four more of these.
2008 Tremblay Cécile, Morey St.DenisMar. 2011
’Only’ forty percent whole clusters. The nose starts dark but quickly opens up higher tones too. Lovely soft texture, this wine rolls over your tongue like it was made to measure – fab!
2008 Taupenot-Merme, Morey St.DenisApr. 2010
Dark, slightly herbal fruit. In the mouth this is full and masculine, there’s a stickiness to the tannin too. Lovely length – this lingers excellently.
1995 Dujac, Morey St.DenisDec. 2009
Medium ruby-red colour with a faint browning at the rim. The nose is sweet and rather stemmy, there’s a faint beefy note that has me flirting with the notion of brett, and some mixed herbs. In the mouth the wine starts narrow, slowly opening over tongue. The acidity is a little sharp and metallic in flavour, it makes you forget to look for tannin, which whilst understated, is still a little blocky. Reasonable length and some sweetness, but today, no love.
2007 Dujac, Morey St.DenisJul. 2009
Aromatically high-toned with a very pretty red-black fruit melange. In the mouth there’s a pleasing width of creamy red fruit and nice minerality. Good underlying acidity and hidden tannin. Lovely.
2006 Lécheneaut (Philippe et Vincent), Morey St.DenisDec. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose offers up mineral and earth notes with dark fruit – it’s very nice. Linear in the mouth before widening into a good finish. It’s complex and quite interesting.
2004 Lignier Hubert, Morey St.DenisJul. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour still with some cherry-red colour. Deep aromatics, with dense darker cherry fruit thats not perfectly fine but has a lovely faint mocha halo. Mouth-filling, well balanced acidity and tannin that comes through on the mid-palate but has already faded before the finish. Actually the finish is rather good with small after-shocks of creamy flavour. Today the mid-palate flavours have a bitter edge that contasts well with the sweet fruit but was just on a little too high level to start – after an hour and with food I’d rather say bitter chocolate – nothing left for tomorrow, very nice.
2005 Lignier Lucie et Auguste, Morey St.DenisJul. 2008
Deep cherry-red colour, almost a little purple. Wide aromatics with slight white-pepper spice over a deeper but reticent black cherry. Excellent intensity of black cherry fruit, super acidity to balance and tannin that is submerged in the extract. It’s a powerful combination for a villages wine, a little mineral too but it’s also very linear and obviously closing-in on itself – faint black chocolate shows on the finish. Super villages but be prepared to wait.
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