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12 notes
2009 Ramonet Noel, MontrachetMay. 2011
The nose is full and round, offering high tones and low tones. Less mouth-coating than the Bâtard but with super intensity but then surprises with yet another dimension of flavour. Special.
2008 Baron Thénard, MontrachetDec. 2010
Full aromas; classic, slightly herby Chassagne over a concentrated, warmer and deep core of fruit. Full, round and complex flavours suddenly widen across the palate. The very, very long finishing flavour, at its core, is exactly the same as in the 2009.
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils, MontrachetDec. 2009
A little deaper colour. The aromas start a little heavy and more forward, at the core there is fine complexity but this builds additional dimensions and balance as it aerates – a few minutes in the glass, and the heavyness is gone replaced by a ’roundness’. Really beautiful texture, complex, and with mind-changing mid-palate complexity. As it builds in power it develops an almost buttery texture, but at its core rather than over your teeth and cheeks. Only eventually does the acidity leach from the side of your mouth to prolong the finish. Really special and very approachable today!
2006 Picard Michel, MontrachetApr. 2008
Dense fruit with a subtle oak undertow. Concentrated yet mineral with a good spine of acidity. Savoury length and more mineral than any of the Bâtards, but not necessarily better.
2002 Romanée-Conti, MontrachetNov. 2005
Tasted blind. Medium colour. The nose starts a little tight with some barrel notes, then marzipan, pear-drops slowly becoming a little spicy and creamy. The palate just makes you say ‘Ooh!’. It’s amazingly complex, long, long, long and ever-changing. Gorgeous texture, simply a tour de force. The multidimensional palate was exactly as I remembered the 2002, but the acidity seemed less gushing than when last tasted, so I made a flying guess at a lower acid vintage – 1997 – I was wrong it was the 02!
2002 Romanée-Conti, MontrachetJul. 2005
Less than half the production of Romanée-Conti. Pale gold. Gives up a wide, indeed panoramic nose with a medium butterscotch depth and a spicy – though not detracting – wood note. The most striking aspect of this wine (for me) is the sweet, almost gushing, acidity, you’re washed along the rapids (my wife points out that it’s cheaper to go white-water rafting) followed by a momentary lull before the wave that is the finish hits you. It’s a really fit wine, no added fat – all my analogies seem to involve speed – like a racehorse and one that sprints rather than slows to the line. The finish lasts fully 2 minutes, this is a special experience.
1988 Remoissenet Père et Fils, MontrachetJul. 2005
Medium golden colour. Very high toned and somewhat volatile, estery notes dwarfing a ripe, deeper and interesting core. Initially disappointing in context, but this wine improves leaps and bounds as the volatile edge leaves the scene. Wide, panoramic palate with an extra burst on the mid-palate. Long and very interesting. I don’t think the valatility will aid longevity, but the show’s pretty good today.
1983 Latour Louis, MontrachetJul. 2005
Golden. Deep and sweet nose with butterscotch and lanolin. The palate is intense without weight. Very nice acidity though lower than some – but that doesn’t seem to have harmed it. Overall a very impressive wine that has depth and still plenty of ripe fruit, but just missing an extra zip for the absolute top prize.
1971 Giroud Camille, MontrachetJul. 2005
Amazingly young colour, still only a medium yellow. The nose is very high toned perhaps with a hint of taint. The palate is amazingly lithe, linear and tight, initially no cork here but slowly it released its venom…
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