Why Big Red Diary?
19 notes



2005 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheApr. 2008
Aromatically closer to the style of the Richebourg than the Vivant, but right from the start it has focus and an extra and deeper register if not the anticipated spice-box. The flavour profile is riper/sweeter than the last wines – closer to the Echézeaux – but the there is a clear and distinct extra length. Currently this is at the subtle end of the traditional La Tâche continuum – it’s far from a blockbuster, but it certainly edges the Richebourg for the most complete wine so far.
2004 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheApr. 2007
Yield 26.35 hl/ha – or 1,432 cases. I spent 40 minutes with this wine and despite how impressive it was – I didn’t seem to find too much to write! The nose starts slightly understated – hints of cedar and plenty of spicy interest. Slowly it becomes smoother and wider with faint caramel and coffee, eventually showcasing nice precise red fruits. Here is yet another character – more forward and ebullient. Super length with plenty of attack.
2003 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheMar. 2006
The nose starts in a similar vein to that of the GE; exciting, deep, musky, before broading to an even wider panorama of powdery red fruit aromas. Mouthfilling and concentrated. There is an easily preceptible extra density to this wine. The marvellous finish is easily a match for the GE, and overall, this is the first wine that manages to better it. Superb.
1986 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Medium mahogany in colour. The nose is little vegetal and mildewy to start, slowly mature red fruit emerges plus a little pine-needle and earth, unfortunately just a wisp of TCA too. It’s not apparent on the palate, though there must be some diminution of the experience. Despite this there is a nice soft entry and a concentration that builds to a crescendo on the palate. In this company still a little subdued, certainly mildly corked.
2002 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Already lost much of its youthful colour, just a trace of cherry still at the rim compliments a core of medium-plus ruby. Starts with a blast of fruit, becomes mute for a while, then starts to show its wares, complex fruit laced with spice notes that you really only get with La Tâche – almost ginger cake – just a trace of oak toast and smoky stems in the mix too. There’s an understated entry into this wine before a fabulous burst of fruit rushes you from the mid-palate into the finish. The soft tannins are buried and the acidity is just right. It needs an hour from opening to blossom, but this was a stellar performance for such a baby.
1978 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Medium colour, again an old mahogany shade. Width on the nose, hints of resin, sweetness, doesn’t start spicy, rather broad and deep, becoming ever more intense and rounder. Wonderful effects on the inside of your mouth – fireworks certainly – quite rich, with a finish that defies reason. It’s about as mature as any wine could be in gamey yet sweet way. For me this wine is second only to 1990, though the 1959 was probably its equal.
1976 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Unfortunately our planned bottle of 1971 was corked, so this was the back-up bottle. Consistent colour with 86 and 78. Slightly mineral nose, some sweetness, smokey bacon covered with caramel coupled with fresh higher tones. The acidity is not quite so refined as the others – parallel here with the hot vintage and 1997 – and the tannins still have a grainy texture, but the fruit has real intensity. A very interesting bottle that (again) like the 1997 took on more balance with aeration and time. A very worthy backup.
1971 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Corked – shame!
1969 Romanée-Conti, La TâcheNov. 2005
Medium colour. The nose starts rather closed vs the other wines, taking rather a while to develop – ends up like a less intense, perhaps ‘junior’ 1978 – no bad thing! The palate is less explosive than most of the others, but the intensity still grows and grows in your mouth. Perfect texture and lovely acidity. It has everything that the other wines have, but on a slightly lower register – perhaps it’s starting to fade – it is, however, a beautiful thing.
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