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1980 Les Perrières, Gevrey-Chambertin Petite ChapelleDec. 2008
The cork comes out in one piece only with the intervention of an ‘Ah So’ two-pronged ‘corkscrew’ and is incredibly deeply coloured at the wine-facing side. This still has a high fill – only 1cm from the cork. Lots of fine sediment in the bottom of this bottle so it needs plenty of care pouring – it needed 4 days upright to clear. Medium mahogany-red/brown colour but red is still dominant. The nose – ah; sweaty socks, cheese, soil and maybe a hint of Madeira – I think it’s time to take a coffee and return at leisure. Okay, 3 hours later: if anything the nose is slightly worse with a dominant smell of sugary beef-stock. The palate is smoothly textured and shows some fat and good acidity – whatever’s in there has good concentration, but the nose is so overpowering that (whether the flavour is really in there or not) everything seems to be smothered by the beef-stock. Unusual, and not really what I might expect for heat damage. After 5 hours the nose is almost becoming bearable and the palate is rather fine – but that was as good as it got! Bottle number two was just the same.
2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Petite ChapelleJul. 2008
Deep colour. The nose starts quite savoury, only slowly offering a deeper black-fruit core that has a faint white pepper coating. In the mouth this is much more mineral, the acidity is more obvious but retains good balance. The tannins are a little more visible and help the flavour stain your tongue. Good, mineral length with a twist of coffee. Much less comely than the Perrières today, but qualitatively its equal. Another wine I shall buy.
1995 Trapet Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin Petite ChapelleMar. 2004
Obvious signs of of past seepage on the top the cork. Medium, medium-plus ruby, just fading a little to brick at the rim. The nose is a beauty – starts with tons of berry fruit – black as well as red, summer pudding. Gradually becomes more diffuse, but gains in depth and secondary, more savoury aromas with a trace of earth. The palate is medium fat and could do with a little more concentration for a 1er Cru, but shows lovely fruit with a long, almost licorice finish. The acidity is good, though the tannins are still present and show a hint of bitterness at the end – but they’re quite well mannered. A wine that shows both balance and plenty of interest, though still requires at least another couple of years in the keller.
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