Why Big Red Diary?
9 notes



2008 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesMar. 2011
Standard cuvée. From fourteen year-old vines. I have the impression that there’s some background reduction, but Pierre says this is the terroir and he describes it as sauvage. The flavour grows in the mouth, nicely mouth-watering. Good density of flavour.
2008 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesMar. 2011
Cuvée ‘en foule’. Planted at 36,000 vines per hectare in 2002. This high-density planting returns about two bunches of fruit per vine. Also a little ‘sauvage’. Clearly we have more intensity and a mineral dimension to versus the ‘classic’. Nicely balanced – will surely become ever-more impressive as the vines age.
2009 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesMar. 2011
Normal (classic) cuvée. The sauvage note is there, but it seems to diminish in the glass. Wide and interesting, the sweet fruit peaks in the mid-palate – tasty.
2009 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesMar. 2011
Cuvée en foule. The nose seems to offer up chalk and minerals – no sauvage. Fuller and more tannic than the basic cuvée there definitely seems more material in the glass. Again there is a peak of flavour in the mid-palate but this time with much more complexity. A bigger difference in the two wines in 09 versus 08.
2007 Serveau Bernard, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesJan. 2011
The nose is becoming characteristic, there is more depth but also more volatility too. Nice flavours with the structure further to the fore, though that will fade. Again the last drops smell much nicer than the full glass.
2007 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesApr. 2010
The dark fruit aroma is edged with earth and oak. After the Pommard there is more fruit dimension and grainier tannin. Long finishing this is pretty good.
2002 Dugat-Py Bernard, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesNov. 2005
Deep cherry-red. The nose shows a really intense redcurrant and cranberry note – very impressive – as I was expecting an attack of oak. The palate has structure, but the tannins are completely covered by the high-quality fruit. The level of extract is higher than some grand crus, what is missing in such a comparison is the complexity. For all that, this is a splendidly dense – but balanced – village wine, I’d be really interested to revisit this in 10 years to see what awaits. It’s only a shame that it costs more than many grand crus!
2001 Vougeraie, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesMar. 2003
Yields of only 25hl/ha. Slightly darker colour. Pure red and black cherry nose with a hint of vanilla. Medium tannins and persistent fruit. Again lovely wine.
1997 Dugat-Py Bernard, Gevrey-Chambertin Les EvocellesFeb. 2003
Nose is mainly toasty oak – not much else. Good acidity and relatively fine, mouth-coating tannins, but where is the fruit? Considering that 1997 is generally a very ripe vintage I amazed that I could only find the ‘wood’. To my palate very disappointing.
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