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7 notes

 

 

2003 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeApr. 2007
At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.
2000 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2005
Medium ruby red. High-toned, fresh and slightly powdery dry nose. Good, mouth-watering acidity, very little overt tannin. The red-shaded fruit is quite nice and has not-bad concentration for a 2000. A little 1996 in style but without the concentration of many from that vintage, good and clean but not really exciting.
1999 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2005
Medium-plus cherry red, no fading. Stewing cherries on the nose – little else. More density and definition than the 2000, still with mouth-watering acidity and little obvious tannin. Certainly not a stunner for the vintage, but very tasty in isolation and should last for a long time.
1998 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2005
Starts with rich, chocolaty fruit but within 3 or 4 minutes overpowered by taint…
1997 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2005
Medium ruby red core just fading slightly to amber. Ash-notes overlay sweet, spicy and slightly plummy red fruit. There’s good texture that’s just a little creamy. The acidity is just a little harsh in the finish but the wine’s quite fat and the fruit has concentration and lasts very well though is quite cooked – reminds me more of Carneros than Gevrey…
1995 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2005
Medium ruby red, little fading and despite a little amber at the rim, still looks relatively young. A fresh raspberry and cherry tart nose with a pleasing, slightly estery, tertiary depth. The dominant style of this wine is the acidity, smooth but in the ascendant. The fruit is actually quite tasty with a piercing red fruit aspect. There’s just a trace of dryness on the finish but the tannins are well mannered. Not fully joined up this wine, but it’s clean, very drinkable and unlikely to go downhill soon.
1999 Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin La RomanéeMar. 2004
Similar depth of colour to the Varoilles, but shows just a trace of amber at the rim. Redder aspect to the nose with an extra raspberry depth. Rounder and more elegant with perfect acidity. The tannins seem better covered by the extract. Again good length and another good wine.
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