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1998 Mortet Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin En MotrotDec. 2002
Dark garnet/purple, subtly darker than the the base villages wine. Again toasty oak on the nose but a little less pronounced with black cherries in the mix. The acidity is more pronounced than the above, with black cherry again on the finish. After an hour of swirling (as above) the toasty oak seems more persistent than on the ‘basic’ G-C, and is ‘lighter’ in the mouth. After 3 hours we have lost most of the ‘toast’ and have a more silky mouthfeel than the ‘basic’. Okay, moving on 24 hours (under vacuvin) the oak has not been subdued quite to the same extent as the ‘basic’ but is now (to me) ‘acceptable’. The nose has less blackcurrant aspect than the ‘basic’, otherwise it seems a little more concentrated with some liquorice hints. The palate is smoother with better integration of the acid. The finish is long and mainly fruit driven rather than creamy oak. Now it’s really an excellent wine. I don’t have any more of these, though would wait a similar time to re-test if I had.
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