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8 notes

 

 

2009 Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesMar. 2011
Dark fruit dovetails with hints of reduction. Very mineral then slowly leaches mouth-watering flavour. This is very impressive.
2007 Giroud Camille, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesDec. 2009
A little deeper aromas – black dimension to add to the red with a little musk. More linear and mineral, balanced and perhaps a little more intense. A bright, burst of acidity that encourages the long finish. Very good but drink the Cazetiers today and wait for this.
2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesDec. 2009
I double decanted the bottle then left it in the refrigerator for 1 hour as my room temp was about 28°. Medium, medium-plus colour though still cherry-red. The nose still manages to open up with a dark, reductive, slightly toasty oak impression – but it stays in the glass for less than 5 minutes. Slowly it builds a width of creamy, macerating morello cherry aromas, ever-so slowly adding depth with time – very faint herbs overlay the fruit and eventually a little toffee. In the mouth the first word that comes to my mind is unctuous as the sweet fruit wraps around your tongue, though the fruit’s smiling face turns to a frown as the tannin begins to assert itself – it’s like fine sand in texture but far from astringent. The acidity is on a relatively low level so it both dulls the mid-palate (no extra dimension) and adds little to the slightly earthy, salty finish. Unctuous, but I can’t say succulent – there’s just not the freshness for that – I honestly found the second glass a chore. For all that, it’s rather a concentrated and serene wine and about the best 03 I’ve tried recently from the 1er/grand cru levels, I’m also convinced that the pretty fruit will further improve, but I’m not convinced it will ever (for my taste) overcome the shortcoming of the acidity…
1999 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesMay. 2009
I have to preface this note with the fact that the paint was worn from the end of the capsule, there were signs of seepage and the label was rather dirty – none of my other wines from storage have been in such condition. It’s a singleton, and hopefully (cosmetically at least) a one-off so maybe not representative. The colour is medium ruby-red. The nose starts with an impression of oak (despite Fourrier using very little), some sous-bois and a hint of brett – only the last drops in the glass show some very fine berry fruit. A forward personality in the mouth – good acidity and intensity without great weight. The flavours linger well, it’s smooth but the mid-palate is a little lumpy. My thoughts are mixed; this was certainly tasty, very tasty, but aromatically disappointing. If this bottle and that brett is representative, I’d be thinking of drinking a majority of bottles in the near future for their personality and keeping just a few back for longer term, I wouldn’t be buying more.
1993 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesJul. 2005
Medium-plus colour. The nose starts almost corky/high-toned but blows off to reveal a more earthy and eventually classic 1993 dried cranberry/raisin fruit. Nice balanced concentration with lovely acidity, fine fruit and a hint of rusticity to the grainy tannins. Made by Jean-Marie’s father in a much earthier style than you find today.
1997 Faiveley Joseph, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesMar. 2004
Medium-plus ruby red, still with a shade of cherry – not much fading. The nose shows sweet raspberry and red cherry pie – complex and enticing. The palate shows fresh acidity, like biting into fresh fruit – if only the tannins and finish were a match. Despite good length, they start a little bitter and astringent. Certainly improves (up to a point) with aeration and food and is quite drinkable – lovely fruit. Interesting – even nice – but not a ‘re-buy’.
1993 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesMar. 2004
Deep ruby colour almost to the rim, though amber tinged. The nose is splendid, faint earth and mocha with primary black fruit floating above, given time the fruit starts take on a more raisined note and become more meaty, smokey notes come through too. Super palate of perfect acidity and furry tannin that shows only if you keep the wine moving around in your mouth. The fruit is also surprisingly primary on the palate too – like baked raspberries and very intense. I really enjoyed this very much, and it is frankly some way from showing it’s best – my only other bottle will have to wait to 2010 – at least!
2001 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux MoinesMar. 2003
Medium-plus cherry red. Red fruit nose with well integrated background oak. Stronger tannin than the ‘Les Goulots’ with good acidity and fruit. Very good.
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