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6 notes

 

 

2002 Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxApr. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little depth and intensity, faint herbs and, as the glass drains, lovely piercing red berries – mmmm… It starts a little strident, but 30 minutes from opening there’s a real extra fatness and super acidity that dovetails to a decent villages intensity. Subtly long. A wine that ‘gives’ a lot – yum!
2004 Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxDec. 2008
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.
2005 Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxNov. 2007
Delicate, fragrant and focused, it’s a lovely nose though not what I would guess to be Gevrey. Some fat, this nicely textured wine again shows an additional creamy edge to the fruit. The tannin is less transparent than the previous ‘Arvelets’, but it’s fine and ripe. Finishes long and fresh. Excellent villages.
2003 Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxNov. 2007
Medium-plus ruby-red, still with a cherry-hued rim. The nose is understated, deep and just a little tight. The palate is concentrated, ripe, sweet and by a hairs-breadth avoids being ‘porty’. The flavour clings to the inside of your mouth with understated, faintly bitter but relatively fine tannins and little dried fruits as a background – it hangs around quite long. Sumptuous if not elegant. A pleasant enough 2003.
2002 Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxNov. 2007
Medium cherry-red colour. The nose starts with just a twist of dark and spicy oak. The palate has ebullient acidity, the classic 2002 grainy tannin and a narrow but quite long finish. The acidity is really a key part of the expansion in the mid-palate which brings quite some character to the wine. Perhaps not quite 1er cru level of intensity or, today, complexity, but certainly engagement. Nice wine, even in a 2002 context.
2001 Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxNov. 2007
Medium cherry-red colour. The wide nose mixes high tones, powdery red fruit and an interesting depth. The palate is lovely; ripe, sweet fruit, perfectly balancing acidity, melting tannins and a burst of intensity in the mid-palate that leads you to the mouth-watering finish. The finish is medium-plus length with a hint of chocolate. Young but I have to say drinking beautifully today!
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