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16 notes

 

2009 Pousse d'Or, Corton Clos du RoiNov. 2011
Medium-plus colour. Notes of ripe dark fruit mingle with equally dark oak – or is the latter colouring the former? After the nose this is much more lithe than I was expecting – really lovely intensity and some ripe tannin too. Long-finishing flavours of dark fruit and licorice; this wine seems to have absorbed the toasty flavours more than the others.
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton Clos du RoiApr. 2011
The nose is a quite lovely blend of flowers and fruit. In the mouth this is round for Corton, intense and subtly complex – yum.
2008 Vougeraie, Corton Clos du RoiMar. 2011
The fruit on the nose is a little darker, it’s also very clean and complex. There’s a base of tannin, slightly astringent tannin but it’s finely textured too. Good flavour and very long.
2009 Vougeraie, Corton Clos du RoiMar. 2011
Interesting fruit that keeps your nose to the glass, slowly growing higher tones too – captivating. More material but less focus versus the 08 is my instant impression. Very good concentration though perhaps like a twist more of acidity – yet the flavours seem mouth-watering enough and are certainly long.
2008 Giroud Camille, Corton Clos du RoiJul. 2010
Again, full-on aromatics – red fruit and mineral – the last drops smell fabulous. Silky texture, more mineral flavours and very intense – a totally different personality to the Rognets. Super.
2007 Chandon de Briailles, Corton Clos du RoiApr. 2010
From the top part of the Clos, the ground is very poor, it can be quite mineral. The ‘young’ vines are about 25 years old but the average is close to 50. Slow to open, you need to work the glass to bring out a red-fruited mineral impression – it hardly hints to the 100% stems that lie behind. Again there’s more structure, silky texture with an almost chewy backbone. Again a long, straight and powerful finish. Very, very good.
1997 Chandon de Briailles, Corton Clos du RoiApr. 2010
Beautiful colour – it still looks young – François thinks this intensification of colour is down to the stems. Imediately wide and warm aromas that slowly develop higher tones and fresher fruit to match – there’s plenty of mineral dimension to match. In the mouth this is sweet and well-textured – surprisingly fine and delicate acidity acidity for the vintage. The flavours are starting to be augmented by a little chocolate. A really super 1997, bravo!
1996 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du RoiDec. 2009
Medium-plus colour. With any volume of wine in the glass, the aromas tend towards leafy, clean notes over a tighter, darker depth. As the glass drains the aromas first add a little raisined fruit before a very, very pretty red fruit comes centre-stage – really impressive. Slightly forward acidity – the 1996 vernacular – and slightly metallic flavours – the young Corton vernacular. The tannin builds as you roll the wine around your mouth – this is very much a 12-year-old youngster. There’s plenty of mid-palate depth that hints toward earthy flavours, but it remains reasonably primary. There’s almost ‘enjoyment’ here, but wait another 2-3 years before returning!
2001 Thomas Charles, Corton Clos du RoiApr. 2009
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose of macerating cherries, slightly alcoholic but focused. Full in the mouth with concentrated fruit and equally concentrated, reasonably fine and ripe tannin. Very nice fruit that hints at an extra creamy dimension and lovely acidity. This wine has plenty of muscle and I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it another 10 years, yet was a tasty wee dram. Very good.
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