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1985 Remy Louis, Clos de la RocheApr. 2012
Ten minutes are needed for the nose to open, but when it does… Stunning, sweet-inflected red blood, faint smoke and precise layers of fruit – glorious stuff. The palate is very fine, showing ripe fruit and nice acidity – just a little minerality too. I still expect more oomph from a Grand Cru – the intensity and concentration is more that of a villages – churlish to complain (perhaps) as this is both complex and compelling. Just beautiful wine. This time around, none was left to oxidise overnight!
2009 Guyot Olivier, Clos de la RocheMar. 2011
Dark ripe fruits that are rather distinguished. Very fine tannin, this is mineral and very intense. In a vintage like 09 I think I’d take this ahead of the Clos St.Denis.
1985 Remy Louis, Clos de la RocheJan. 2011
Medium colour. The nose starts without incredible depth, rather it’s relatively wide with pretty layers of fresh fruit with a very faint spice accent in the background, slowly it becomes ever-more delicate and well-defined with wild strawberries and perhaps raspberry too – swirl and it is a more leathery effect – I really could sniff this all night! The freshest acidity of all these recent 1985s and clearly the most mineral too – some impression of violets in the mid-palate where it’s actually rather linear but with achingly long (if narrow) flavours that continue as long as your mouth keeps watering – which was quite a while. Remarkably pretty, but should there be a bit more Grand Cru depth and dimension? I suppose I’ll never find out if I just keep sniffing! On day two this has a little oxidation – unlike all the other 85s I opened – so it’s fragile as well as delicate. Drink up in the next couple of years seems to be the way forward…
1985 Remy Louis, Clos de la RocheJan. 2011
Medium colour. The nose starts without incredible depth, rather it’s relatively wide with pretty layers of fresh fruit with a very faint spice accent in the background, slowly it becomes ever-more delicate and well-defined with wild strawberries and perhaps raspberry too – swirl and it is a more leathery effect – I really could sniff this all night! The freshest acidity of all these recent 1985s and clearly the most mineral too – some impression of violets in the mid-palate where it’s actually rather linear but with a achingly long (if narrow) flavours that continue as long as your mouth keeps watering – which was quite a while. Remarkably pretty, but should there be a bit more Grand Cru depth and dimension? I suppose I’ll never find out if I just keep sniffing! On day two this has a little oxidation – unlike all the other 85s I opened – so it’s fragile as well as delicate. Drink up in the next couple of years seems to be the way forward…
2000 Rousseau Armand, Clos de la RocheJul. 2010
The aromas initially mix a little mineral and green – not so engaging. The palate is a world different; sweet, complex, fresh enough and like the Raveneaux, quite engaging. The nose very slowly improves, losing the strident edge and taking on a little sweetly smoky bacon-fat aromas.
2008 Roche de Bellene, Clos de la RocheJul. 2010
Aromatically tight. In the mouth this has a really impressive flavour – it’s hard to spit – overall an ‘exciting’ wine.
2008 Boisset Jean-Claude, Clos de la RocheApr. 2010
Aromas of understated creamy fruit – it’s very nice. It has a wide, sweet, acid-led personality that just about balances, the fruit is beautifully precise. Very sneaky length.
1997 Rousseau Armand, Clos de la RocheMar. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. From top to bottom this nose is impresses with quality dark red fruit, there is the faintest edge of something a bit looser – caramel and redcurrant – but overall this is super. In the mouth there is a silky density that drives rather too fast into the finish. Swirl it around over your tongue for longer and then the intensity builds, but with it comes some slightly bitter tannin. The finish holds much longer now but with a little of that bitterness. A bit of a monolith in the mid-palate, I’ll save some for tomorrow to see if it opens. Day two and the aromatics are more subdued though the palate is indeed a little more open. A good wine, even in the context of the vintage, but I’d still rather have the Ruchottes…
1999 Castagnier Guy, Clos de la RocheDec. 2009
Medium-plus colour, still with some cherry-red in the mix. Deep, sweet beetroot, brown sugar and a dark red/black confiture fruit encasing a core of some minerality – the last drops in the glass show beautiful raised red fruits. Perfectly balanced acidity that keeps your mouth watering, yet the supporting sweetness ensures no sharpness. The finely-grained tannins are very-much fading into the background. Medium plus finish. A balanced and very pretty wine that is slowly adding some complexity and is very 99, but it’s not obviously grand cru – at least today – maybe more like a good 1er. That said, it was cheaper than many 1ers at the time of buying!
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