48 notes



2006 Camus, Charmes-ChambertinNov. 2011
The nose is mineral and understated – yet there is quite some depth. In the mouth, this has a nice racy stance with good texture and a nice depth of flavour that slowly expands before decaying in the finish. This wine has much to commend it – it is neither simple nor ‘fruity’, but it is engaging.
1983 Bourée Pierre Fils, Charmes-ChambertinOct. 2011
Medium colour, again with plenty of browning. The nose starts in a very tight way; some savoury notes but little else to latch onto. Very slowly a raspberry perfume with clear stem references begins to evolve. The first mouthful is of a perfectly balanced, if rather thin, wine. There is a little rasp from what remains of the tannin – it’s a nice touch of character. There is eventually an interesting extra dimension, and some intensity, in the mid-palate – this is not a food wine, it’s flavours are engulfed by just about anything. Without food there’s just enough sweetness, but overall, it’s hardly worth the effort. After the 66 Pommard of last week, this is something of a let-down.
1996 Gallois Dominique, Charmes-ChambertinMar. 2011
Deep and vibrant – lovely colour. The nose has lots of maturity about it, and certainly plenty of complexity; depth, a little morel mushroom, also a little cigar-box that slowly morphs into cedar-ish hints, not unlike the of 2004 pyrazines but in no way over-powering. In the mouth there’s lots of intensity here; super acidity and very understated tannin – very long with a quite mineral flavour. Sweetness of fruit remains an undertow. You could get a great idea of of a mature Charmes by drinking this already – and that’s a very different personality to a young Charmes – but have no fear, there’s another 20 years of interest here for sure. Yum.
2007 Gallois Dominique, Charmes-ChambertinJan. 2011
These vines are now over one-hundred years old. The nose starts just a little diffuse. In the mouth it’s full and round with a discrete edge of vanilla-infused flavour. The structure is fine with good acidity – a nice length of flavour too, also with a hint of vanilla. This is a wine to unwind with in a comfortable chair. Actually very long flavours…
2008 Gallois Dominique, Charmes-ChambertinJan. 2011
The nose is higher-toned with pretty red fruits – a lovely complexity too, slowly the aromas open and soften in the glass. There is some flexing of muscle in the mid-palate – very good intensity. This wine seems to expand in all kinds of directions. Long, with a hint of strawberry.
2008 Dublère, Charmes-ChambertinJul. 2010
It needs some swirling to lift a little reduction. Dense fruit, but much tighter than the preceding Morey. Instantly this is from a different category; it starts narrow but widens, showing a super cream-framed depth. Long, mouth-watering and very, very successful.
2008 Giroud Camille, Charmes-ChambertinJul. 2010
More breadth of aromas, perhaps more complex too, but nowhere near the precision of the Cortons. Really wide impression in the mouth – full-flavoured with good texture. This is very long.
2008 Roche de Bellene, Charmes-ChambertinJul. 2010
My nose is greeted by a width of warm fruit, plenty of freshness and occasional bright flashes of more defined fruit. Very well balanced showing lovely flavour. Very fine length.
2008 Bouchard Aine, Charmes-ChambertinApr. 2010
Dark, wide, smoky oak mingles with sweet fruit – it’s actually quite exciting. After the Cortons this seems a little strict though the mid-palate is intense and ends with a very nice finish.
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