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2000 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chablis MontmainsJul. 2009
Just a little darker than last week’s 02 Perrières, but frankly nothing more than a medium gold – no alarm bells. The nose is deep, a little exotic and not really hinting of oxidation, more about toffee-edged fruit – not exactly Chablis-esque, but way-ahead of the Perrières. In the mouth it’s also better – but not by much, clearly showing a strong oxidative character. Actually quite drinkable – but tastes like a 20+ year-old wine. I’m not sure where the border is with respect to fair/not fair to complain about oxidised 1er cru Chablis – but I know it’s not 7 and a bit years after bottling…
2006 Bessin Jean-Claude, Chablis MontmainsDec. 2008
“The Montmains and Fôret used to be sold as a combined 1er cru, this is the first vintage that they are separated.” – Jasper Morris. Slightly paler colour. The nose is wider, but less obviously dense, showing higher, slightly floral elements. Good acidity, more minerality and slowly sneaks into the stony finish. This is tightly wound but super. It’s a shame to drink it now, but if I must…
2003 Moreau J. et Fils, Chablis MontmainsMar. 2006
The nose is wide though a little dense. Sweet, almost honey palate. The acidity is not bad. Surprisingly long finish and just about fresh enough. Almost good.
2000 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chablis MontmainsJul. 2005
Pale yellow, indeed still a hind of green. The nose is a little diffuse and sweet. The palate is very fresh – carried along on a wave of tasty acidity, good mouth-watering length. Quite simple but with currently unexpressive concentration. Almost good in itself and very good when taking account of the price.
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