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2010 Mikulski François, Bourgogne RougeJan. 2012
From the same 1929 vineyard as the Passetoutgrain, but of-course just the pinot this time! Very, very pretty aromas that offer both depth and a precocious intensity. Likewise intensity of flavour and a hint of tannin grab too. I’d relish this young!
2008 Camus, Bourgogne RougeNov. 2011
The aromas are very nice and show a little musk. Round in the mouth with nice but not bright acidity. Certainly quite nice wine here.
2009 Maume, Bourgogne RougeMar. 2011
There are 1 hectare of Bourgogne vines are within the commune of Gevrey next to the Gevrey villages lieu-dit of Platières. Round with really good flavour. There’s some tannin of-course and a strong, slightly bitter finish.
2009 Roulot Guy, Bourgogne RougeDec. 2010
Possibly the last vintage due to yields of 15hl/ha in 2009, practically a wine only one vintage in five. Nice red berry top-notes. A round wine of width, sweetness and a great taste – good intesity. Not very long but very satisfying.
2008 Buisson-Charles, Bourgogne RougeJul. 2010
This sells ex-domaine for €7.50 – the higher cost versus the aligoté is only the cost of the oak. Very good colour. The aromas are more understated than those of the aligoté, but deliver a nice cassis note. Tannic, but velvet tannin. Plenty of acidity pushes the flavours nicely long. A considerable bargain.
2009 Bichot Albert, Bourgogne RougeJul. 2010
Cuvée Secret de Famille. Made for the first time in 2007, not made in 2008. Nine hectares this year, producing about 40 thousand bottles. It’s a premium bourgogne, selected from the Gevrey, Chambolle, Beaune and Pommard areas picked at 39-44 hl/ha, but in this case the premium is less than 2 euros. Bright, medium-plus purple colour. Punchy fruit that’s slightly Beaujolais-esque – though there’s no carbonic maceration, eventually a little pepper too. Lots of intensity, this is very well balanced and the fruit provides plenty of sweetness. Very impressive – 09 could really be another bumper year for buying bourgognes…
2006 de Montille, Bourgogne RougeDec. 2009
Pale bright cherry red, with a broad paler rim showing pinkish still. Bright but slight, spicy cherry, nose. Fresh youthful and rustic, it makes me think of rolling in hay. Mouth entry is pure and sweet, but very small. Nice flavours – very fresh red fruit and spicy, bubblegummy, earth. The mid-palate shows good acidity and grip but no real size, and then it ends. Not quite clipped, but certainly short, though in a way that leaves you wanting more, rather than dissatisfied. Not a serious wine, but just the ticket for a picnic or a roll in the hay.
1999 Barthod Ghislaine, Bourgogne RougeApr. 2009
A little deeper, medium ruby-red versus the Leroy, with a nose that is denser but at the same time less pretty – darker fruit that today is less successfully delineated. In the mouth there is also a little more density and certainly an extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. There is more ‘material’ in the glass and more secondary development than the Leroy, this wine had a significant advantage in purchase price too – it’s a really good regional wine – yet I would certainly go for the Leroy in preference today.
1996 Leroy (Maison), Bourgogne RougeApr. 2009
Limpid, medium, medium pale ruby red – looks lovely in the glass. The nose is restrained yet finely transparent with clean strawberry, raspberry and cherry impressions. In the mouth it’s a delightful combination of lightness yet intensity, transparency and freshness. Frankly this wine excels, drinking very well now despite still being far from mature. Filigree burgundy that’s more about impression than weight.
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