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2010 Mikulski François, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsJan. 2012
From a selection of vines planted in 1929. Good depth on the nose. First impression is that there is good intensity of fruit though clearly not the over-ripe version. Just a hint mouth-puckering but the overall balance is very good.
2009 Clark David, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsAug. 2011
Medium colour. The nose has warm but not overtly ripe fruit, is slightly floral and seems far from a poster-child for gamay. Understated flavours slowly grow rather than deliver impact and interestingly this is completely smooth and supple – again hard to find the gamay! Good texture and pleasingly elegant.
2009 Digioia-Royer, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsJul. 2011
No oak here, all the elevage done in tanks, made with 50% gamay, 50% pinot noir. There’s a deep and dark core of berry fruit on the nose. Flavourful and with a lovely acidity. Good flavour here.
2007 Lignier Lucie et Auguste, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsMay. 2010
There’s already a deposit of hard sediment forming in this bottle – real wine then! Medium, medium-plus cherry-red – perhaps even a hint of gamay purple. The nose is all ripe pinot to start, though after an hour I think the gamay can be glimpsed at the core – note I wouldn’t have ‘glimpsed’ it if I hadn’t seen the label! Nicely mouth-filling and silkily textured. The acidity brings a lip-smacking slightly sour-cherry impression to the fruit that makes this a refreshingly moreish tipple. A very sneaky extra creaminess evolves in the mid-palate too. Clean and perfectly packaged to deliver super early summer drinking…
2006 Clark David, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsFeb. 2010
Deep colour – plenty of purple too. The nose shows lots of reduction – about 90 minutes is needed for it to fade though it is never completely gone – deep brambly fruit and a herbal top-note. Linear entry and rather fine tannin – good balancing acidity that amplifies and widens the flavours across the mid-palate – it finishes really impressively. This is a relatively big wine – much more so than the domaine’s 2006 Morey St.Denis for instance. Well-done!
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