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4 notes

 

2005 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesJul. 2008
Medium, medium-plus cherry red. Frankly I don’t like the nose – it’s quite forward, but it’s mainly the bubble-gum notes of a less than satisfying Beaujolais. In the mouth the acidity is quite bright and the flavours are metallic. As it stands, it’s a big NO! I have to give it a chance, so most waits for day 2: Another day and the bubble-gum is on a slightly lower order, but aromatically the wine is far from interesting. Perhaps not so metallic tasting, but the acidity remains very tart – I don’t mind high acidity, but this is tart high acidity. If represenative (and why shouldn’t it be?) a startling failure for the vintage.
2002 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesMar. 2006
Medium cherry-red. The nose is very forward; high-toned cherry and quite some depth too. A completely different wine to the 2003 version in that it hasn’t the same level of concentration, but is much more classic and fresh. Very nicely balanced, good acidity and sweet fruit of a concentration that belies the appellation. Understated tannins and a good finish – a hearty recommendation for this wine.
2004 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesMar. 2006
A mineral, slightly medicinal nose – dominates the fruit. The palate has depth, and good acidity. The tannin is a little grainy but the finish is almost good.
2003 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesJul. 2005
Big heavy bottle exuding quality – hope the wine’s a match – particularly as at €14 it’s not cheap for a bourgogne. Medium-plus colour. The nose whilst shouting 2003 has an extra dimension – it’s close to what you expect from a barrel sample with very forward sweet, ripe red fruit. The palate is also reminiscent of a barrel sample, showing good freshness, a hint of sweetness and a mouthwatering finish of surprising depth. Really first-class bourgogne. Within the context of appellations this is the pinnacle of 2003 red burgundy. There’s now a case in cellar.
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