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3 notes

 

2009 Giroud Camille, Bourgogne Cuvée LMar. 2012
Medium-plus colour. Ooh, depth, silky fruit and hints of violets. The texture starts with silk but quickly changes as the ripe tannin shows its face. Plenty of fruit and some minerality in the mid-palate too. Very good length. Clearly this is significantly above the standard suggested by the label, but given the contents of the bottle that’s surely no surprise. Another ‘Bourgogne’ that begs time to mature…
2008 Giroud Camille, Bourgogne Cuvée LOct. 2010
Stood up in the cellar for 4 days before opening – it wasn’t enough to make the wine shiny bright. Medium, medium-plus colour, The nose has a wild young-wine freshness and immediacy, given an hour or so there is a direct and perfect raspberry note. In the mouth this is wide, very complex, sweet and cushioned. The acidity has a a bit of a leading edge of sharpness (perhaps exacerbated by the suspended material?) but the padding largely covers it. Good length and very tasty right now, in fact in the right circumstances you might be forgiven for thinking it a much higher AOC. This bottle found many friends…
2007 Giroud Camille, Bourgogne Cuvée LDec. 2009
One year David Croix had an order for Bourgogne, only to realise he didn’t have enough wine to fill the order. As an option for the New York merchant he suggested that he could assemble the racked lees from all his reds, give it time to settle as best as possible and see if it was any good. It turned out not bad despite having a slight turbidity as he chose not to filter. The New York merchant has since had exclusivity on this unusual wine – unusual in that it is a compendium of so many wines, including grand crus. When I visited, there was a ‘spare’ half bottle we could taste: A decent medium colour, if not diamond bright. Aromatic depth with relatively high-toned fruit and a hint of orange. The texture is slightly lush, plenty of concentration for the label and acidity that is balancing, if not bracing though needs to smooth out a little in the finish – a hint of CO2 compounds the sensation as does the fact it’s only been in bottle for 3 weeks as gravity has to work for a long time on the fine lees. If it smooths a little, this will be a very pretty bottle.
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