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2008 Jaffelin, Beaune Sur Les GrèvesFeb. 2011
Medium-colour. Instantly the nose is overwhelmed by toasty oak – you have no other pointers – I left the wine in the glass for 20 minutes before returning. On my return the oak is a bit more manageable, finally there are some high tones that might one day aspire to something more perfumed and at least a suggestion of fruit below – even a kind of iodine note found on older whites. Likewise the first taste was sweet oak-water – perhaps pinot but nothing to indicate Burgundy. The texture is very smooth – certainly executive tannins – good balance, indeed the sweet oak gives the impression that the acidity is rather low – in a 2008! I eventually warmed a little to the nose and even a little more to the flavours where there is both depth and a certain density, but on day 1, frankly I find – n o t h i n g – to indicate Burgundy! Shame, but hold your breath; I’ll leave it for day 2, meanwhile I’ll take a glass of Bourgogne Blanc… Day two and the oak-toast on the nose is reduced to a little ash against high-toned, almost floral notes. Fills the mouth, still with plenty of volume and sweetness but there seems a heartbeat of energy from the acidity this time. Quite drinkable and I would say quite tasty on day two. Beaune? – I can’t say – I’d anyway buy the 07 in preference.
2007 Mommessin, Beaune Sur Les GrèvesFeb. 2011
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is just a little bit better than pretty, there’s a high-toned fruit-pastille impression, but also a nice cherry core too – the last drops smell lovely – bravo! Ripe fruit that becomes fresher and more intense as you hold onto it. Decent acidity and the merest reference to tannin in the mid-palate. Good depth with most subtle touch of cream. The tiniest bit of fat pads out the texture. It’s not the most concentrated Beaune you will ever drink, but it is complex and a very well made 2007 indeed. I have to bite my lip and say – bravo (again!) – particularly as the price I paid was less than €20.
2008 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain, Beaune Sur Les GrèvesJul. 2010
Blanc. Sited toward Teurons the chardonnay vines, planted by Benoit’s great-grandfather, are about 70 years old. 1.5-2.5 (big) barrels each year. Biscuity, savoury aromas. This is soft and a little fat after the reds. There is really a nice dimension of toffee’d fruit. Long finishing on good acidity. After a few 2005 reds this is a very compelling drink.
2007 Château Chorey-les-Beaune - Germain, Beaune Sur Les GrèvesJul. 2010
Similar aromas to the 2008, just a little less rich. Stricter (narrower) impression on the palate though it widens in the mid-palate and shows very good acidity.
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