Why Big Red Diary?
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Vintage information 2007:

The whites: could be excellent - concentrated though not too rich and superbly penetrating acidity on the best - assuming they do not age prematurely some will be monuments. Some are still a little 'raw' and will benefit from 1 year of rest
The reds: if you choose your producers - easier in the Côte de Nuits - these wines will make lovely early and medium-term drinking. Many are charming and ripe and easily differentiate the vineyards - Vosnes can be quite hedonistic - others can be a little thin though!

2007 Dublère, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets BlancApr. 2012
Medium lemon-yellow. Wide, inviting, clean citrus fruit and flower notes. After the M&M 06 Puligny, this is much more mineral and lithe – as much the vintage as the vines. Lovely acidity is smoothly rendered and underpinning the intensity and leaving a mouth-watering finish. Excellent
2007 Dublère, Beaune Blanche FleursMar. 2012
I still have a few bottles of this and it has been unremittingly lovely at home. The nose offers of a wide perspective of relatively complex but perhaps a slightly diffuse interest. In the mouth this is the lovely middleweight I recall; wide, subtle and complex – just a very pretty glass of wine.
2007 Eugénie, Vosne-RomanéeFeb. 2012
Medium-plus colour. I have an impression of a little coffee at the centre of this wine’s aromas, but mainly this is a clean and almost 2006-style of Vosne with a textured depth to the aromas, edged with a little dark minerals – very fine. Across the tongue there’s nothing of the facile sweetness that some 2007s display, but there is a little of that borderline lack of ripeness that some other producer’s wines show – in this case it is on a really low level and adds an interesting element. There’s no denying the extra dimension of flavour it the end of the mid-palate. An excellent 2007 indeed.
2007 Pavillon, Beaune Les EpenottesFeb. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. This has a nose that starts with quite a bit of vanilla – it’s also reflected in the early flavours – not my favourite but it just about avoids excess; behind is a raspberry coulee, and very nice that is! In the mouth this has the weight of a 1er cru Epenottes and a good ripe aspect to the fruit which lingers on an understated but fine line of acidity. If told this was a 1er cru from Beaune I don’t expect you’d quibble – though you might reject the barrel vanilla. Over 2-3 hours the unneccessary vanilla make-up fades significantly from both the aromas and flavours but underneath is a wine of excellent value.
2007 Marchand Pascal, Morey St.Denis Clos des OrmesJan. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite interesting; clearly a few stems that are partially obscuring violet flowers but the stems are far from gothic plus, if you swirl, you get a great punch of floral aromas. In the mouth there’s decent weight that despite being a little light on acidity never seems overly heavy. There is sweetness from the fruit, a little more than a suggestion of minerality in the mid-palate and eventually a mouth-watering finish. This is very moreish wine, it shows the vintage more than the village today, but it is very tasty indeed – and that’s before you look at the great price ex domaine.
2007 Le Moine Lucien, Beaune AvauxJan. 2012
The nose starts as pure oak but needs only a handful of minutes to start coming together in the glass, leaving a prominent but quite nice spicy dimension to the red fruit that has now come into frame. Here is an excellent depth of fruit flavour and a very nice intensity too. Clearly there is the carpenter’s hand here, but this is a wine that works very well indeed. The final twist of tannin gives a bitter-chocolate tang to the finish. Very tasty.
2007 Croix (des), Beaune Les GrèvesJan. 2012
The nose shows depth, width and complexity – of fruit – a totally different animal to the previous wine, eventually also delivering a floral aroma too. Silken entry, this is round and concentrated, and like the Le Moine also delivers a bitter-chocolate tannin in the finish – the first obvious oak artefact. Very lovely wine – you would be hard pressed to guess the vintage.
2007 Eugénie, Vosne-Romanée Aux BrûléesJan. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and padded with a hint of musk, fine spice and a creamy crust to the dark fruit aromas. Soft entry, but it’s a little glycerol cushioning that provides the softness, not a lack of structure or flabby fruit; here is a beautifully delineated wine – for a 2007 – clarity of flavour and clean-lines from the understated cool acidity, and even a good base of minerality. There’s a late arriving bitter twist to the serious fruit and finally just a little fine tannic texture. It would be easy to knock ‘Château Eugénie’, and this is certainly very, very polished wine but here is also a wine of class and distinction – the combination of those two words is a rarity in 2007 – not the absolute energy of a 2008 or 2010, but there’s something a little zen-like here.
2007 Tardy Jean, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesJan. 2012
Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at green. The texture is reasonably smooth, and seems to have an element of weight – tannin is there as a faint rasp on the end of your tongue. Decent length in a red register. I expect this had a bit better balance 18 months ago; today it’s far from seemless, the acidity just seems to be approaching ‘sharp’ if not quite there yet, though sweet and sour with emphasis on the sour could certainly be used. Day three: (only stoppered and left at about 17°C) and this wine is suddenly delicious; all herbal references have faded to relative insignificance and the fruit has a beguiling, understated sweetness – how did that happen? I don’t know, but I’d buy it again now!
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