Why Big Red Diary?
12 notes
Vintage information 1992:

The initially big, fat, sweet & tasty whites became ever-more taught and impressive - if rarer by the year - they were quite a counterpoint to the steelyness of the 1993's - there is much room for variety! The reds were always a little more 'stodgy' and missing excitement - some provided an attractive sweetness from 25 years of age though...

1992 Comtes Lafon, Monthelie Les DuressesApr. 2012
Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – interestingly there’s a little 2004-style pyrazine here too – of ~2/10 green meanie intensity – a level that adds interest, rather than turn the stomach. It starts with a narrow flavour profile, but it’s balanced, indeed fresh – a little time in the glass allows the shape of wine to fill out some. The fruit has just enough ripeness and a very faint astringency (still). I might be tempted to say that I’m drinking this a little young, but I’m finding much of interest here. At a good price I certainly might buy again.
1992 Remoissenet Père et Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet MorgeotMar. 2010
From a jeroboam with dinner! Golden but not oxidised – savoury, biscuity. Much more mineral and muscular than I expected – no ‘ample’ 1992 here – complex, balanced and very satisfying. I ‘needed’ 3 more glasses…
1992 Dujac, Clos St.DenisDec. 2008
A medium, quite mature colour. The nose starts deep, stemmy and interesting – over the next two hours it goes from strength to strength, with red berries, mineral notes of pencil lead, occasional caramel or cream etc., etc. – it was first class. In the mouth I expected it would have little chance of competing with the aromatics and so it turned out – but it was still a worthy choice. Not the density of of a grand cru from most (recent) vintages, medium bodied with very slightly elevated acidity, but as the wine developed and became sweeter this was hardly noticeable. The faintest hint of tannin remains and the wine never withered in 2 hours, rather it became more interesting and complex. This is mature, reasonably long and tasty. Nine from ten for the nose and more like seven for taste. Lovely.
1992 Chézeaux, Griotte-ChambertinAug. 2007
There has been some obvious seepage from the cork, but the bottle/label remains clean. A medium-plus garnet colour. The nose starts deep and brooding, perhaps a little sweet – but little else – the last drops in the glass, however, are of a lovely penetrating red berry. The palate is lithe, quite well concentrated and pleasingly fresh. The fruit remains nicely sweet but is set against slightly bitter tannin which is the main note of the finish. Aeration softens the bitter edge but never quite removes it. No obvious heat damage and very drinkable, but the 1994 is better.
1992 Carillon Louis, Puligny-Montrachet PerrièresJul. 2005
Medium-pale golden colour. The nose is quite wide, but not as exciting as the Remoissenet Montrachet that preceded it. However, fatter, denser, riper than the last wine. Less fireworks and complexity but still a very good length. Probably about it’s apogee.
1992 Comte Georges de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny Les AmoureusesMar. 2005
Quite a deep core of ruby-red fruit, it’s only this and the ’88 Bonnes-Mares that seem to show any sign of age. The nose starts with a deep plum-skin that gradually becomes more red without ever coming close to the delineation or complexity of the ’99. Beautiful texture – this is 1st-class Burgundy. It is amply proportioned, soft and sexy. This ‘lady in love’ has little time for the intellectual, but she’s very ‘ready’ now! A really lovely wine and frankly there’s no rush to consume – my best 1992 experience.
1992 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-CharlemagneJul. 2004
Medium gold. The nose doesn’t have the depth of the Roumier but shows a wider horizon of creamy citrus fruit and a faint, high-toned soapy note. The palate, just like the nose doesn’t show the depth of the Roumier wine, but there’s a wider range of creamy fruit driven flavours – super length too. I like fruit – so I personally prefer this wine – despite it probably not being the ‘better wine’. Held up well in the glass – solid as a rock 2 hours later.
1992 Drouhin Joseph, Griotte-ChambertinMar. 2004
Medium ruby with amber towards the rim. Again an understated red fruit nose with a little coffee and cedar. Absolutely nothing understated once the glass touches your lips, big red cherry fruit assaults the palate – after the exceptional 1993 the flavours are perhaps a little diffuse. There’s almost good acidity and medium, slightly grainy tannin. Neither the fat nor the extra length of many here, but drinking now, and supremely elegant. Probably the best 1992 I’ve tasted and no rush to drink up.
1992 Gros Michel, Vosne-Romanée Clos des RéasMar. 2004
Medium-plus ruby red with a little amber. The nose is less expressive than when tasted 1 hour ago. After the 1993 the fruit is a little muddied. In isolation a nice wine, but after the 1993…
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