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Vintage information 1989:
1989 Dauphin Cave du, Bonnes-MaresFeb. 2012
The second bottle from this ‘cache’. The nose is completely lovely; a reasonabe depth but sweet and understatedly creamy. The fruit doesn’t (at least to start with) show any of the roasted character I noted with bottle 1. Silky and clean, the last impression is a little astringency though not much obvious tannin to support that. Mineral and with good acidity – the mouthwatering flavour lasts long in the mouth but always majoring on the mineral. Not super-intense, but certainly enjoyable.
1989 Dauphin Cave du, Bonnes-MaresNov. 2011
Medium colour. There is a hint of roasted to the fruit but generally this is not so bad, rounded with a faint pot-pourri note. The fruit is ripe enough and actually shows a good mineral tension; not the last word in intensity, but not bad either. The acidity is just fine and you can still get a few grains of tannin too. Probably not an exceptional Bonnes-Mares, but a nice enough bottle.
1989 Latour Louis, EchézeauxMay. 2010
The bottle is a heavy one – statement bottles are not just the current bling. The capsule spins and the cork comes out in almost 3 pieces – fortunately none into the bottle. On pouring there’s quite a mahogany caste to this wine, but it looks to retain a nice core of of clear red colour in the glass. The nose starts quite understatedly, a little sweet musk, low-level turned leaves – perhaps there’s something to be said for flash pasteurisation in killing the brett. Slightly thick texture, the acidity starts with a slighly harsh edge but I’m impressed by the burst of energy and flavour in the mid-palate. If I’m honest the acidity adds a touch of austerity rather than delivering a mortal wound, though I’m not convinced enough to splash the cash for the meaining bottle. The last third is consumed on day two and if not perfect, it’s just a little softened with a chocolate depth and it lingers well. I’d rebuy on day two…
1989 Remoissenet Père et Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin CazetiersApr. 2009
This 89 showed more high-toned aromas and a little herb too versus the 1999. Less full on the palate and more secondary flavours coming through. Ripe, and brings a feeling of warmth, perhaps needing an edge more of acidity to give it sparkle but another tasty wine.
1989 Taupenot Andrée, Pommard Les EpenotsJul. 2008
Medium, medium-minus colour – some amber at the rim. The nose starts with fungus and undergrowth to be replaced in short-order by dense, chocolate coated red fruits. The acidity starts a little pronounced, but also that slightly discordant note quickly fades. It’s fresh with a lovely burst of flavour in the mid-palate and still a rasp of tannin too. Good length. It has a hint of the rustic, but was devoured – a super bottle.
1989 Maume, Mazis-ChambertinApr. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. High tones over a creamy base – slowly evolves cream before finally a little ripe fruit peaks through. A quiet entry builds in the mouth. Round and with (for the first time) creamy fruit. This has super length and still some tannin to resolve – a little plump, but excellent.
1989 Coche-Dury, MeursaultApr. 2007
A penetrating and wide nose. There’s good depth and only faint brioche. The nose bit-by-bit improves and improves, eventually giving a little caramel. The palate is polished smooth and gives a very impressive, slightly creamy length. There is the merest trace of oxidation on the palate, but even for oxidation-averse me, it is additive to the complexity. Expands very nicely on the palate in an understated but highly impressive way. Very, very long with a little lime in the finish. Simply fantastic villages.
1989 Coche-Dury, Meursault RougeotsApr. 2007
The nose is reasonably toasty, some width and a little spent match (gunflint) – but relatively primary for all that. Given time the glass fills with aromas and added complexity. The palate has understated entry, is wonderfully intense in the mid-palate – but I’m no fan of a flavour profile that (for me) from time to time hints at taint – I must have been wrong because it faded rather than got worse. On its own I’m still unconvinced, but this wine transformed with food (scallops) it became as polished as the 89 villages, alone it’s merely very good.
1989 Méo-Camuzet, Vosne-Romanée Les ChaumesApr. 2007
Medium colour. The nose starts wide, high-toned and mineral with a hint of damp cellar – given time there is a red, plummy fruit aspect and eventually it soars from the glass, showing faint stemmy notes – super. The palate has slightly prickly acidity, reasonable width and considerable length – but needs leaving in the glass a little longer for pleasure. The prickly edge softens and the palate becomes quite complex. Pretty good on the palate, super aromatics.
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