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8 notes
Vintage information 1983:
1983 Bourée Pierre Fils, Charmes-ChambertinOct. 2011
Medium colour, again with plenty of browning. The nose starts in a very tight way; some savoury notes but little else to latch onto. Very slowly a raspberry perfume with clear stem references begins to evolve. The first mouthful is of a perfectly balanced, if rather thin, wine. There is a little rasp from what remains of the tannin – it’s a nice touch of character. There is eventually an interesting extra dimension, and some intensity, in the mid-palate – this is not a food wine, it’s flavours are engulfed by just about anything. Without food there’s just enough sweetness, but overall, it’s hardly worth the effort. After the 66 Pommard of last week, this is something of a let-down.
1983 Arnoux Robert, Nuits St.GeorgesOct. 2011
Medium colour, quite some browning. The nose is clean to start and all about soil, soil and more soil – with time we have a deep sweetness and a subtle undertow of musk. A little tannin bubbles below the surface and the flavour grows and grows in the mid-palate – really good intensity and plenty of sweetness too. I think this has a really good mid-palate complexity and with just a hint of creaminess too. Slowly lingering on beautifully judged acidity – medium-plus length – tons of enjoyment here; this is the archetypal melting old burgundy with tons of sediment at the end – completely yum!
1983 Ponnelle Pierre, Nuits St.Georges Les Corvées PagetsOct. 2010
Some signs of seepage above the cork, but it comes out without major headaches and the wine seems fresh enough. Dark, fresh aromas of berries and bramble – it’s certainly at the darker end of the fruit-colour spectrum but there’s nothing cooked about it and there is no sense of decay – it’s very nice indeed. The palate is a bit of a surprise as there is a dryness from still obvious tannin – this must have been an absolute brute in its youth! Good acidity and likewise there’s energy too – the juxtaposition with the nose is that you expect more sweetness on the palate than this wine is prepared to give. Without sight of the vintage I’d have ventured to suggest leaving it in the cellar another 5 years or so – in some respects it reminds me of some 95s I’ve tasted!
1983 Clair-Däu, Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles St.JacquesApr. 2008
Deep, dark and powerful aromas with a hint of volatility that eventually settle into a mature red-fruit vein. There is a lovely core of fresh flavour here, it’s robust and will never be a charmer but there is personality galore and it’s surprisingly clean and tasty
1983 Thomas-Moillard, Volnay Clos des ChênesApr. 2008
Earthy chocolate mixes perfecty with the savoury notes. Lovely acidity and tons of flavour delivered with a soft touch. A slowly lingering sweet finish to round off – Super
1983 Maume, Mazis-ChambertinApr. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour but more mahogany than ruby. Wide and deep aromatics that are initially fruitless, more earthy. This is more structured than the 85 but smooth acidity is the hallmark that rescues the wine. The tannins still have a light ‘grab’ in the finish. Clearly not the most sophisticated, but very enjoyable.
1983 Hudelot-Noellat, Romanée Saint-VivantNov. 2005
Excellent medium-plus colour, clear and bright, ruby cored with an amber edge. The nose initially disappoints majoring on sous-bois elements – slowly it builds meat then chocolate aspects before finally giving up spicy red fruit. On the palate acidity is the dominant aspect, still coupled to mouth wrapping tannins of some grain that dominates what fruit there is. There is one saving grace, the finish is very long and has a compelling raisin aspect to it. That the wine easily held-up in the glass, indeed improved over 2 hours, implies that this wine isn’t simply over-the-hill, rather that it was never a great wine – the fruit was perhaps never a match for the structure. An interesting, but ultimately disappointing wine.
1983 Latour Louis, MontrachetJul. 2005
Golden. Deep and sweet nose with butterscotch and lanolin. The palate is intense without weight. Very nice acidity though lower than some – but that doesn’t seem to have harmed it. Overall a very impressive wine that has depth and still plenty of ripe fruit, but just missing an extra zip for the absolute top prize.
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