update at mischief & mayhem

By billn on November 03, 2006 #aloxe-corton#producer update

mischief and mayhem cellar door
As discussed in my report back in July, the team at M&M have opened (only last weekend) their new ‘cellar-door’ facility – rather nice it is too – but if today was anything to go by, in January the refridgerator will be used to keep the wine warm!

mischief and mayhem cellar doorBest news from this follow-up visit is that I no-longer have taster’s angst – I liked the wines a lot in my first report, but Burghound was lukewarm – to be fair, Dr Meadows had the wines in the post only 5 days after they were bottled – anyway that bastion of good taste the wine spectator (actually Bruce Sanderson) weighed in with scores in the range 91-92/100 – shame then (for me) that M&M have already sold out in Aloxe-Corton – they had no license to sell direct when I last visited.

A few new wines have been added while they forge their bottle contracts (already 90% complete) for next year – see below:

2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Chablistry to find this wine...
Establishing yourself in this business is about over-delivering, and here is a prime example; this wine is really a 1er cru from Côte de Lechets, but is labelled and priced as ‘Chablis’. The colour is pale yellow. High-toned aromas of citrusy pear swoon from the cold glass. The palate is fresh, wide and clean, tailing into a medium length. As it should be, a very, very good ‘Chablis’.
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Mischief & Mayhem, Pinot Noirtry to find this wine...
A high-toned, narrow, ripe red and faintly blue coloured nose. In the mouth this is fresh and very pinot with clean, pure flavours and a finish that’s reasonably long for the regional appellation. Perfect sipping, chilled on a warm sunny day.
Rebuy – Yes
2003 Mischief & Mayhem, Charmes-Chambertintry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. As seems to be the house style, here also are nicely high-toned aromatics, just a little minerality edging the fresh cherry – this temperature (let’s say a little under 18°) is ideal for most 2003’s, any higher and most 2003’s start to become a little flabby. In the mouth this wine is a little more obviously 2003 with a ripe density, though it’s admirably fresh and the tannins are in no-way unruly. No fireworks in the mid-palate, rather a linear expression going into the good finish
Rebuy – Yes

pommard #2

By billn on November 03, 2006 #degustation

coche-dury pommard 04
2004 Coche-Dury, Pommard Vaumurienstry to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry red. The nose is sweet ripe and only with time betrays the faintest trace of cedar. Wide and friendly, the aromatics are sweet oak with a creamy edge to the red fruit. One sip and you’re hit by fresh, crunchy red and black fruit and grainy tannin – quite the extrovert – given the nose I expected something much more plush. The finish is quite long for a villages, showcasing those grainy tannins. This improved in the glass and was quite a crowd-pleaser.
Rebuy – Yes

the first frost

By billn on November 02, 2006 #degustation#travel

november in savignyEverything was coated in a layer of frost this morning, and despite the perfect blue sky there’s more than a hint of chill to the breeze. In the Côtes, most of the vines have lost their leaves, but here and there, there are parcels that still reflect yellow and red in the sun – I’ll add a picture later…

This morning I visited Domaine Antonin Guyon in Savigny, for its size this is a seriously ‘under-the-radar’ domaine which produces good+ quality as its basic level and can hit wonderful heights – a full report in about 2 weeks in the November issue.

This afternoon (in an hour) I will taste with Carel Voorhuis at d’Ardhuy for appraising some 2005’s and to ask him about those pine-needles in the Pommard below…

😉

pommard & côte d’or

By billn on November 01, 2006 #degustation#travel

ardhuy pommard lambotsOnly a tenuous link in the post title – despite what it might look like! Tomorrow I head for a few days in the Côte d’Or, possibly for the last time this year, but with some good visits (I hope!) arranged. The weather has finally turned colder and we could have freezing overnight in the next days, but hopefully my camera is to be greeted with plenty of blue sky.

Pommard; I’m slowly embarking on a profile of the village and the degustatory research starts this week with 2004 which had a trying time due to hail:
2004 d’Ardhuy, Pommard Les Lambotstry to find this wine...
A shiny medium cherry-red. The nose is pure pine-needles and cedar – slowly a more fruit-driven effect comes into the mix but over about 20 minutes it is never more than a secondary characteristic. The palate is acid forward, seemingly it needs just an edge more ripeness. The best part of this wine is its texture – very nice finely grained tannins – the finish is not too bad and seems riper than the rest of the wine. Works reasonably well with food, but the borderline ripeness means it would be challenge on its own. Rebuy – No
[EDIT: This was picked at a natural 11.9°, though the pH is not too low at around 3.5]

a new critic at large

By billn on November 01, 2006 #other sites

neal plus admirerIt is with great pleasure I hear today, that long time correspondent and occasional partner to lunches and bottle openings Neal Martin has finally sold-out. He is appointed (over Michel Bettane no less) to be the ‘critic at large’ for Robert Parker’s online empire.

I say sold-out, not because he is moving to eRP but because he will no-longer be providing ‘album (that’s CD for younger readers!!!) of the month’ for his readers – though in-truth it was becoming every second month of recent. It seems I will have to return to Baccarat and René & Renata without his youth perspective.

STOP PRESS – Neal Martin has officially not sold out – he confirms to me in writing that it’s not the end for this seminal work – my kipper ties can stay in the closet a little longer…

[EDIT1] – How it happenedPart 1
[EDIT2] – How it happenedPart 2

alex gambal chambolle

By billn on November 01, 2006 #degustation

gambal chambolleVersus tasting from barrel I’ve had occasional reds from Gambal that seemed rather subdued – I’ve come to believe that they need a good deal more aeration than I was allowing, but this was excellent right from the bottle and way more interesting than the recent bottle from Fourrier:
2001 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Gruencherstry to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. The nose has some oaky depth overlayed by dense, though initially not so intense, creamy black cherry; with time the oak fades and the creamy fruit comes more to the fore. Understated entry – apparently only moderately concentrated to start with – but this very well textured wine builds intensity in the mouth. The overal picture is of black-shaded fruit just edged with a little oak texture, but this will fade (the oak!) – the finish is a reasonably long one. I enjoyed this a lot.
Rebuy – Yes

bourgogne agenda for november

By billn on November 01, 2006 #diary dates

Dates for your diary in November:

  • 11-12 November – “Fête des vins du Grand Auxerrois”, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Tastings and cooking demonstrations. Tel. +33 (0)3 86 53 66 76
  • 17 November – “Grumage de Santenay” in Santenay. Tastings of new wine. Tel. +33 (0)3 80 20 67 77
  • 17-18 November – “Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction”, Beaune. A weekend of activities to mark the Hospices wine auction, includes tastings of Hospices wines, and also in merchants’ cellars http://www.ot-beaune.fr Tel. +33 (0)3 80 26 21 30
  • 17-18 November – 134th “Exposition générale des vins de Bourgogne”, Palais des Congrès, Beaune. Tastings of new-vintage. Tel. +33 (0)3 80 62 30 61
  • 18 November – Le Roi Chambertin, Domaine Marchand-Grillot, Geverey-Chambertin. Growers association tasting (€5) and wine auction in aid of cancer charity Tel. +33 (0)3 80 58 54 98
  • 26 November – Fundraising Dinner for the Abbey of Saint-Vivant in the Château du Clos de Vougeot. Lecture, recital by a sextet from the Berlin Philharmonic followed by ‘prestige’ dinner. Further info. on the association’s website http://www.saint-vivant.net or direct to PDF info en Français

magnum report pt.5 (last)

By billn on October 31, 2006 #degustation

clerget chambolle charmes
1999 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmestry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts very-much in a coffee/mocha vein, but bit-by-bit plums ever-more depth. Time takes the nose into a lovely core of tight, focused red fruit that eventually widens to give a redcurrant aspect – always my favourite. This has depth, intensity and an obvious extra level of tannin vs the older wines. A lovely wine. Rebuy – Yes
1999 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacquestry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium ruby-red colour. It’s a wide and mineral nose with an almost corky element. With time the corky element takes over – I never found it on the palate though – still, a shame.
1990 Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots de Milieutry to find this wine...
(From magnum) Very deep colour – close to black. No obvious oak on the nose, but it’s so dense and unforgiving – perhaps this is a harsh adjective, but this wine is so fresh, linear and dense that it could be 2002 in presentation. The only clue to its age, is that the tannins have started to melt, but super concentration remains – it’s a tour-de-force – but wait for 2015. If there is one criticism, the wine doesn’t seem so long and is unlikely to gain length with extra age – but I’m still very, very impressed. Versus the Clerget Chambolle this has twice the depth & concentration, but the Clerget is significantly more refined – the choice is yours. Rebuy – Yes

a new manager at domaine bertagna

By billn on October 30, 2006 #the market

christophe vial bertagnaChristophe Vial is the new estate manager at Domaine Bertagna in Vougeot, he will be assisted by the new vineyard manager Arnaud Lecoeur and cellarman Denis Rozat.

For the last five years, Christophe Vial was cellar-master at Domaine de Montille in Volnay. He now takes over from Claire Forestier who left the domain in March and is now to be found at Domaine Denis Mortet. Christophe’s replacement at de Montille is Gaétan Marchand who was a cellar-master at the Domaine de la Vougeraie in Premeaux.

Swings and roundabouts!

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