Two excellent 2004’s…
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Deep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a hint of coconut too.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deeper colour than the villages – edged with purple. The nose is much tighter and less giving, but earthier. The palate is denser and smoother – executive beefcake here. Perfect acidity and a very impressive length. Just like the villages, this wine is mainly about a black fruit profile with fine dry tannin that is completely covered by the soft fruit. I was very happy until I returned to the last half glass that had overnighted in the fridge – the earth has turned to cedar on the nose, less plush in the palate and the tannins stuck out. Day 1 fantastic, day 2 not! Many wines made in a reductive style won’t survive overnight in the fridge – Fourrier is a good example – based on this I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt because it was super on day 1.
Rebuy – Yes

2004 Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroie

Medium-pale yellow. The nose starts deep with plenty of fresh bread and sweet pear, slowly tightens and becomes higher toned. The palate is fat and full – almost grand cru ‘oily’ – with super acidity, and penetrating intensity that bursts with lime/citrus fruit. Considerable yet understated length that shows just a hint of cream. In one word; excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

I’ve wanted to open this mixed case for a while…
2003 Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Deep red, sweet cherry mixed with sweet vanilla oak – the fruit is nicely delineated – provided you keep the temperature below 20°C. Full flavour, perfectly presented with a strong vanilla infused finish – very high quality villages but very, very 2003.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Aloxe-Corton
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts very red, ripe and forward, slowly becoming more interesting – coffee and cinnamon edged. Fresh and sweet, the wine expands in the mouth – nicely lingering flavours. The tannin is very well covered. A very successful and super value wine – heartily recommended.
Rebuy – yes

These producers have invested in a very nice new ‘livery’ for their 2004’s – much more elegant than their niaive predecessors.
2004 F & D Clair, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Medium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and a nice flow into the good finish. Again there’s a slightly savoury element to the palate too. Plenty of flesh here, rather than the taught, haughty aspect of many in 2004. Easy and tasty drinking – very good value at it’s pre-arrival price.
Rebuy – Yes

The last time I had one of these was at least 3 or 4 years ago, and probably a 1996 – but I do remember liking the wine! In September I took a ‘flyer’ and managed to land a reasonably priced case at auction; here’s the chance to see what kind of mistake I made!
1998 Pierre Gelin, Fixin 1er Clos Napoleon
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose starts very subdued, only slowly starts to take on a more tertiary, slightly alcoholic edge – eventually becomes quite interesting. The palate is well textured with super acidity and impressive mid-palate concentration – if it had any astringent tannin in its youth then it’s already melted. It’s ready now and I’m sure it will hold for a few years more, it’s just a little Gevrey in style and very well priced.
Rebuy – Maybe

Seems I didn’t do too badly after-all!