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2005 Voillot Joseph, Volnay Les BrouillardsSep. 2011
Medium colour. A kind of candied sweetness mixes with red fruit and eventually a beguiling floral aroma – lovely. This wine has thinned-out, plenty of acidity but intensity too and an impression of extract. Still very drinkable but not the gorgeously cushioned drinkability of its first few months in bottle. This remains a great Brouillards.
2009 Voillot Joseph, Meursault ChevalièresFeb. 2011
Medium, medium-plus lemon yellow. The nose is round with hints of ginger and fuller base of fruit. Sweetness from ripe fruit and a lovely acidity that lingers, mouth-wateringly into the finish. The ginger on the nose is reflected in a spiced-bread flavour too. Rounder than same domaine’s Meursault Cras – possibly a more classic Meursault too. Anyway – lovely.
2009 Voillot Joseph, Meursault Les CrasFeb. 2011
Right from the start the aromas could be mistaken for the 08 Buisson-Charles Cras; there is a little more emphasis to the high-toned aromas, but otherwise remarkable similarity! The texture likewise starts similarly, the flavours too, yet the shape of the wine is quite different. Despite a waxy-smooth complexion this starts with a burst and slowly fades – but wait, there is certainly some CO2 at work in the mid-palate. I think I need to reserve judgement for 30 minutes on that shape! I return and the character of the wine if not completely the shape has changed; the nose has lost some of the higher-toned emphasis (CO2 now gone I suppose!) and in the mouth it is now smooth for its full length – the early upfront burst of flavour is more elegantly captured by the mid-palate. Similar length, but slightly less intensity versus the 2008 – I guess that’s the vintage acidity talking – another lovely wine.
1993 Voillot Joseph, Meursault Les CrasOct. 2010
Medium, medium-plus golden. There are few black bits floating in the bottle, but they sink without problem. The nose is a blast of matchstick – I guess a bit more sulfur in those days! – underpinned with a soft spice-bread note. The palate is very 1993, taught, wiry, intense and with very good acidity – add that to the usual minerality of Cras and you have quite a combination. The flavours also seem to have plenty of the matchstick aromas and there is a super extra creamy dimension as you head into a decent, more savoury finish. Not a Meursault to wallow in, this one ‘instructs’.
2006 Voillot Joseph, VolnayApr. 2008
Medium colour – in bottle for 1 month and the colour has shrunk apologises Jean-Pierre Charlot! A lovely red-fruit nose that is delicate and focused. High-toned fruit in the mouth and plenty of acidity. Long-flowing finish is very nice. Simple, well-made and with a super nose.
2005 Voillot Joseph, Volnay ChampansApr. 2008
Medium and a bit depth of colour. The nose is deeply red with an impression of soft oak in the background. It’s a narrow entry, right through into the finish where it suddenly widens and shows a lovely length of flavour. The fruit is a mix of beautifully melded cherry and raspberry, the tannin must be in there somewhere but the impression is just the smooth ride to the finish. Compelling, but less interesting and open today than the Brouillards despite a little more density.
2005 Voillot Joseph, Pommard Les RugiensApr. 2008
Medium colour. Width but little depth on the nose – just a twist of oak early on, followed by nice soft red fruit and a slowly intensifying redcurrant. On the tongue it’s soft, no Pommard rusticity, tight, reasonably concentrated though not obviously intense. Understated length, lingering with mouth-watering acidity.
2006 Voillot Joseph, Volnay ChampansApr. 2008
This has been bottled a little longer and is a little deeper in colour. A wide, floral and interesting nose. In the mouth there’s a little more understated power, more tannic but balanced and showing another dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. Also lovely.
2005 Voillot Joseph, Volnay FremietsApr. 2008
Medium colour. A deep, soft, faintly chocoloate covered fruit greets your nose – wide and quite impressive. Fresh, lithe and showing a very nice and subtle extra dimension in the mid-palate that flows into the finish. Background tannins are well covered and finely grained. This is very, very nice
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